Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From memory in 18x9.5 they come in +20 or +12. Either one of these will be well outside the standard front R32gtst guards, if your going wide body it won't be an issue though.

Ryan

Or if you're running a decent alignment with camber on the front for grip.

Sorry, if its a GTSt with std guards, even if the insides are rolled then its my experience that sized rim will not have a hope in hell of fitting on an R32 GTSt

I'm glad you're not fitting wheels to cars all around Australia then.

I run 9.5 +12s on the front of my R34 with no issues whatsoever, and 32 is very similar width, so the +20 should be fine. Just dial camber into it.

Looks retarded and not even close to fitting lol.

Which is why no-one on here has decent fitment.

That needs camber (like any performance alignment) and a little stretch and they'll tuck. If the guards were pulled a little it would fit with EASE.

lol I know :D, but you know how much the kids like their "fitment" these days........

So you're suggesting you don't understand it? Ok :P

So you're suggesting you don't understand it? Ok :D

1. Not at all champ, I understand it completely, but my 32 is a race car, running under very restrictive category rules, thus the camber I have, is the the most I can have.

2. Regardless, I favour good handling and rough road behaviour, than perceived "good fitment". :P

3. We swapped the LMGT4's off my 34 GTR over a carton of piss on a friday afternoon for shits n giggles.

1. Not at all champ, I understand it completely, but my 32 is a race car, running under very restrictive category rules, thus the camber I have, is the the most I can have.

2. Regardless, I favour good handling and rough road behaviour, than perceived "good fitment". :D

3. We swapped the LMGT4's off my 34 GTR over a carton of piss on a friday afternoon for shits n giggles.

People also need to understand that fitment doesn't have to sacrifice handling etc.

But clearly under your regulations you do what you can. Clearly I'm talking about an open environment that allows for whatever you like.

That needs camber (like any performance alignment) and a little stretch and they'll tuck. If the guards were pulled a little it would fit with EASE.

Still doesn't mean it is a good idea. Why not just get the proper offset or slightly smaller rim that doesn't need to run race car amounts of camber to fit? Anymore than a degree or two on a road car is going to chew the crap out of the tyres.

Same goes for stretching tyres to the max, why not just get a slightly smaller rim and fit the correct sized tyre on, better performance and better tyre wear not to mention it is legal and doesn't look silly.

Still doesn't mean it is a good idea. Why not just get the proper offset or slightly smaller rim that doesn't need to run race car amounts of camber to fit? Anymore than a degree or two on a road car is going to chew the crap out of the tyres.

Same goes for stretching tyres to the max, why not just get a slightly smaller rim and fit the correct sized tyre on, better performance and better tyre wear not to mention it is legal and doesn't look silly.

Because you're looking at it the wrong way.

I go a wider wheel, so the same size tyre can be used, but has the necessary stretch.

And with alignment, I set my car up with -3.5 camber because it is ALWAYS getting flogged in the hills so I set it up to be optimal. I don't set it up for driving to work and sacrifice it's performance under load.

But I also simply accept that my tyres will wear quicker (i'd change rear tyres 12 times a year anyway due to sliding the car).

^^^ Exactly, I think some folk missed the tongue in cheek "fitment" reference.

R34 GTR wheels go on my gts very nicely imo, what offset are they? Plus 22 aren't they?

11468_102362446454898_1000004342-1.jpg

They're 18x9 +30 :P

My R34 has 9.5 +12 all round without any guard pull at all. Just lips rolled :ermm:

12092010109.jpg

Edited by BTM

^^^ It looks like your front guard has hit the rubber a fair bit there. Or is that a light reflection.

I highly doubt 3.5degree negative camber is ideal for road driving in a street car, even with proper semi-slicks.

And ECR32, 33 and 34 get wider guards with each model. Flush fitment looks good, significantly outside the guards just looks like a virgin P-plater rust bucket non-turbo 180sx living in 2006 when drift was kool.

Edited by simpletool
^^^ It looks like your front guard has hit the rubber a fair bit there. Or is that a light reflection.

I highly doubt 3.5degree negative camber is ideal for road driving in a street car, even with proper semi-slicks.

And ECR32, 33 and 34 get wider guards with each model. Flush fitment looks good, significantly outside the guards just looks like a virgin P-plater rust bucket non-turbo 180sx living in 2006 when drift was kool.

The damage on the guard was from when they weren't rolled and were rubbing hard. Fixed it all up and they don't rub at all now, so no issue of them bending. Was just my laziness that caused it initially.

And my mate runs 9 -5s under the front of his R32 with standard guards :)

As for being highly doubtful, I run more camber with street suspension than race sus because the car has a tendancy to roll more. I build my cars to be driven hard, not to be pussy footed around like most Skyline's you see these days :)

Edited by BTM

i run 9.5 +15's on my r34 and my guards are stretched alot and on the front they still stick out 10mm and the rear is flush. there is no chance in f**k they will fit on a gtst, gtr maybe deff not gtst

i run 9.5 +15's on my r34 and my guards are stretched alot and on the front they still stick out 10mm and the rear is flush. there is no chance in f**k they will fit on a gtst, gtr maybe deff not gtst

Thank you for showing you have no idea.

Already done it time and time again on them.

My 9.5 +12s on the front of my R34 sit maybe 2mm out of the guards, and no guard pulling at all.

It can be done, so don't say it can't.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
×
×
  • Create New...