Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From memory in 18x9.5 they come in +20 or +12. Either one of these will be well outside the standard front R32gtst guards, if your going wide body it won't be an issue though.

Ryan

Or if you're running a decent alignment with camber on the front for grip.

Sorry, if its a GTSt with std guards, even if the insides are rolled then its my experience that sized rim will not have a hope in hell of fitting on an R32 GTSt

I'm glad you're not fitting wheels to cars all around Australia then.

I run 9.5 +12s on the front of my R34 with no issues whatsoever, and 32 is very similar width, so the +20 should be fine. Just dial camber into it.

Looks retarded and not even close to fitting lol.

Which is why no-one on here has decent fitment.

That needs camber (like any performance alignment) and a little stretch and they'll tuck. If the guards were pulled a little it would fit with EASE.

lol I know :D, but you know how much the kids like their "fitment" these days........

So you're suggesting you don't understand it? Ok :P

So you're suggesting you don't understand it? Ok :D

1. Not at all champ, I understand it completely, but my 32 is a race car, running under very restrictive category rules, thus the camber I have, is the the most I can have.

2. Regardless, I favour good handling and rough road behaviour, than perceived "good fitment". :P

3. We swapped the LMGT4's off my 34 GTR over a carton of piss on a friday afternoon for shits n giggles.

1. Not at all champ, I understand it completely, but my 32 is a race car, running under very restrictive category rules, thus the camber I have, is the the most I can have.

2. Regardless, I favour good handling and rough road behaviour, than perceived "good fitment". :D

3. We swapped the LMGT4's off my 34 GTR over a carton of piss on a friday afternoon for shits n giggles.

People also need to understand that fitment doesn't have to sacrifice handling etc.

But clearly under your regulations you do what you can. Clearly I'm talking about an open environment that allows for whatever you like.

That needs camber (like any performance alignment) and a little stretch and they'll tuck. If the guards were pulled a little it would fit with EASE.

Still doesn't mean it is a good idea. Why not just get the proper offset or slightly smaller rim that doesn't need to run race car amounts of camber to fit? Anymore than a degree or two on a road car is going to chew the crap out of the tyres.

Same goes for stretching tyres to the max, why not just get a slightly smaller rim and fit the correct sized tyre on, better performance and better tyre wear not to mention it is legal and doesn't look silly.

Still doesn't mean it is a good idea. Why not just get the proper offset or slightly smaller rim that doesn't need to run race car amounts of camber to fit? Anymore than a degree or two on a road car is going to chew the crap out of the tyres.

Same goes for stretching tyres to the max, why not just get a slightly smaller rim and fit the correct sized tyre on, better performance and better tyre wear not to mention it is legal and doesn't look silly.

Because you're looking at it the wrong way.

I go a wider wheel, so the same size tyre can be used, but has the necessary stretch.

And with alignment, I set my car up with -3.5 camber because it is ALWAYS getting flogged in the hills so I set it up to be optimal. I don't set it up for driving to work and sacrifice it's performance under load.

But I also simply accept that my tyres will wear quicker (i'd change rear tyres 12 times a year anyway due to sliding the car).

^^^ Exactly, I think some folk missed the tongue in cheek "fitment" reference.

R34 GTR wheels go on my gts very nicely imo, what offset are they? Plus 22 aren't they?

11468_102362446454898_1000004342-1.jpg

They're 18x9 +30 :P

My R34 has 9.5 +12 all round without any guard pull at all. Just lips rolled :ermm:

12092010109.jpg

Edited by BTM

^^^ It looks like your front guard has hit the rubber a fair bit there. Or is that a light reflection.

I highly doubt 3.5degree negative camber is ideal for road driving in a street car, even with proper semi-slicks.

And ECR32, 33 and 34 get wider guards with each model. Flush fitment looks good, significantly outside the guards just looks like a virgin P-plater rust bucket non-turbo 180sx living in 2006 when drift was kool.

Edited by simpletool
^^^ It looks like your front guard has hit the rubber a fair bit there. Or is that a light reflection.

I highly doubt 3.5degree negative camber is ideal for road driving in a street car, even with proper semi-slicks.

And ECR32, 33 and 34 get wider guards with each model. Flush fitment looks good, significantly outside the guards just looks like a virgin P-plater rust bucket non-turbo 180sx living in 2006 when drift was kool.

The damage on the guard was from when they weren't rolled and were rubbing hard. Fixed it all up and they don't rub at all now, so no issue of them bending. Was just my laziness that caused it initially.

And my mate runs 9 -5s under the front of his R32 with standard guards :)

As for being highly doubtful, I run more camber with street suspension than race sus because the car has a tendancy to roll more. I build my cars to be driven hard, not to be pussy footed around like most Skyline's you see these days :)

Edited by BTM

i run 9.5 +15's on my r34 and my guards are stretched alot and on the front they still stick out 10mm and the rear is flush. there is no chance in f**k they will fit on a gtst, gtr maybe deff not gtst

i run 9.5 +15's on my r34 and my guards are stretched alot and on the front they still stick out 10mm and the rear is flush. there is no chance in f**k they will fit on a gtst, gtr maybe deff not gtst

Thank you for showing you have no idea.

Already done it time and time again on them.

My 9.5 +12s on the front of my R34 sit maybe 2mm out of the guards, and no guard pulling at all.

It can be done, so don't say it can't.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...