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Cheers Jarrad, I like the CE28's so much, plus they ain't to bad in the sun either!

Thanks Richard, was a mission to fit but it should help out in the long run. It might need a bigger outlet, but we shall see when summer comes around. There was one leak but it was due to me not tightening up a union all the way!!

So I finally changed the rotors over yesterday arvo, and yep, no more shudder, nice and smooth. Just have to bed them in before I give them a hard time.

It involves me unbolting the hats from the discs and swapping them over for the new discs. All up took less than 2 hours, back on the road :thumbsup: .

Also found that not only were the calipers fitted upside down, all the discs were on backwards!!!( like that when I bought the car) so don't just look at which way the slots are facing. It's the cooling vanes that tell you which way they face. So now the brakes are all good!

If you don't know what I mean when I talk about cooling slots, the discs I have are curved vane, like stock GTR ones. Means that the discs act like an air pump, and air goes in through the center and leaves through the circumference of the disc. If they get put on backwards, in short they don't cool very well and will overheat, just like mine did.

Straight vane discs, you can mount either way.

At some point I may have to check valve clearances, getting lifter rattle before I get oil pressure, so shims may be up for a check and adjust $$$.

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yep exactly. so many people tell me XXX rotors are on backwards because the slots. which way the slots face makes zero to nothing difference. what matters (as you found) is which way the vanes are rotating and curved vane rotors can only be mounted 1 way. less crucial with straight vane rotors of course.

looks nice mate. :)

  • 1 month later...

Thanks Richard. Oh well let them find out the hard way if they don't want to believe!

On the engine front, I have now got the following ready to go on the car:

New Nismo AFM'S

555cc Nismo injectors

Nismo fuel pump

I like bolt in stuff!

Once I fit these, then it will be off to get tuned :laugh:

Still have to sort out the front left suspension squeaking on turns/uneven driveways etc. Seems to be getting a bit louder.

Pretty much has to be the big castor bush in the alloy lower control arm that can't be replaced....everything else is good or new.

Replaced front left driveshaft, but old on was fine, it got a new life on Sloane's 32GTR.

post-12712-0-35451200-1310112931_thumb.jpg

Thanks Richard. Oh well let them find out the hard way if they don't want to believe!

On the engine front, I have now got the following ready to go on the car:

New Nismo AFM'S

555cc Nismo injectors

Nismo fuel pump

I like bolt in stuff!

Once I fit these, then it will be off to get tuned :laugh:

Still have to sort out the front left suspension squeaking on turns/uneven driveways etc. Seems to be getting a bit louder.

Pretty much has to be the big castor bush in the alloy lower control arm that can't be replaced....everything else is good or new.

post-12712-0-35451200-1310112931_thumb.jpg

So who's tuning the car??

Just looked at your dyno graph Nick, very nice! You must be happy with the tune, and that would pretty much be my aim right there.

20psi maybe, don't want go to high (safety margin) with stock engine.

Probably go with 18 even though life starts at 25PSI apparently :nyaanyaa:

More important than your boost is how hard you push the engine with the ignition advance, and how lean you run it on boost.

A forged engine will in some cases tolerate a more agressive ignition curve, and a few more random pinging events, but in the end it will die as well. I think that the random combination of a bad tank of fuel and a particularly cold day kills more tuned engines that run on the ragged edge than anything else.

Just looked at your dyno graph Nick, very nice! You must be happy with the tune, and that would pretty much be my aim right there.

20psi maybe, don't want go to high (safety margin) with stock engine.

Probably go with 18 even though life starts at 25PSI apparently :nyaanyaa:

Life starts at 2 Bar...

Just looked at your dyno graph Nick, very nice! You must be happy with the tune, and that would pretty much be my aim right there.

20psi maybe, don't want go to high (safety margin) with stock engine.

Probably go with 18 even though life starts at 25PSI apparently :nyaanyaa:

Very happy with the result absolutely love it and hope you get what you are after too!!!

I heard life started at 20PSI hahaha

hey Sean how much and where did you get the nismo afms from?

did you max your stock ones at 288rwkw? or they still had a bit left in them?

Got them off a forum member a week back for $700.

Stock AFM's didn't have much left in them, but it's the injectors I am worried about. Definately running in the mid 90's or so in this cold weather, so new injectors it is. I was told that I could push 300kw but it's not a good idea with everything on edge, so higher rated bits going in to go for my aim.

Ha ha, true Ben, and even less sometimes, just ask Matt!

Got them off a forum member a week back for $700.

Stock AFM's didn't have much left in them, but it's the injectors I am worried about. Definately running in the mid 90's or so in this cold weather, so new injectors it is. I was told that I could push 300kw but it's not a good idea with everything on edge, so higher rated bits going in to go for my aim.

Ha ha, true Ben, and even less sometimes, just ask Matt!

I never once ran 2 bar... My valve springs couldn't take more then 1 bar over 6500RPM... But it still used 70% injector duty cycle on my 880cc injectors at 5000 - 5500RPM to hold an 11:1 AFR... ;)

More important than your boost is how hard you push the engine with the ignition advance, and how lean you run it on boost.

A forged engine will in some cases tolerate a more agressive ignition curve, and a few more random pinging events, but in the end it will die as well. I think that the random combination of a bad tank of fuel and a particularly cold day kills more tuned engines that run on the ragged edge than anything else.

I agree there, but I'm not going to get it tuned to the edge, just something safe :D, usually like mid to high 11's air fuel on boost, but I'll leave that to the tuner...

I've never blown an engine in 7 years of GTR ownership, only gearboxes!!

I never once ran 2 bar... My valve springs couldn't take more then 1 bar over 6500RPM... But it still used 70% injector duty cycle on my 880cc injectors at 5000 - 5500RPM to hold an 11:1 AFR... ;)

I meant the blown engine bit lolz!, Hows the v8 going?

I meant the blown engine bit lolz!, Hows the v8 going?

Leave my engines out of this... :P

V8, I'm not sure if it's progressed any further then when I posted the photos. I'm hoping it has. I tried to call today actually to find out if there has been anything further done...

I've got the new wiring loom sitting in my wardrobe, it just needs plugs put on it to make it usable.

Also got the race dash and data logger. Going to start making up part of my dash soon...

Should be okay up to 350KW at the wheels, which is what I won't get to with -9's. There are a few variables though, so if in fact I do run into 90+% duty I'll look at bigger one's :)

  • 2 weeks later...

That means spending $$$$$, my last car is testament to that!! >_<

Latest aquisition, nismo fuel pump. Only replacing it because I wanted a fresh drop in fuel pump, don't want to bet on 12+ year old pumps supporting more horsepower.

I now have to replace the driver side mirror due to some ass in a 4WD side swiping me coming the other way.

post-12712-0-51180700-1311251421_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-40914100-1311251432_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-17309000-1311251446_thumb.jpg

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