Jump to content
SAU Community

Track Helmet Where To Buy?

boostn0199

By boostn0199,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Any motorbike store will have cheap options for you, both closed and open face. For more race oriented helmets, maybe checkout Revolution Racegear. Don't recommend skimping on helmet though...it's insurance for your head, the only barrier between your brain and a big chunk of metal...think about it :rofl:

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Hard call man. I only really know about motorbike helmets, of which I would say the average helmet will cost you $350-500 for a good one with some nice ventilation features and quite comfortable protection that moulds to the shape of your head. They can be as cheap as $90 for a one size fits all basic open faced stack hat...and as expensive as $1000-1500 for ultra light weight fancy dancy stuff.

Keep in mind that all helmets are single use, i.e. if you drop your helmet onto a hard surface from a decent height, it is recommended you replace it due to damaged structural integrity...they have an impact absortion that works effectively once and once only. This is why buying second hand helmets is a bad idea because you don't know the history. Also usually the motivation for skimping on the cost because it's like carrying around a glass vase. But it's also like choosing whether your seatbelt is made out of a cotton wool strand or a nylon strap. The beauty about being a helmet manufacturer is you don't have any liability if someone dies - ADR's aren't that strict either.

Budget and safety gear don't belong in the same sentence. If it's just some motorkhana sort of stuff then that's no biggie, but when you're hitting a track...even the pros don't skimp :rofl:

Oops, that turned into a bit of a rant. I just get pissed off when I see motorcyclists riding along in shorts, thongs, a singlet and a $90 helmet...

JamesK Experienced

JamesK

Posted
Posted
Hard call man. I only really know about motorbike helmets, of which I would say the average helmet will cost you $350-500 for a good one with some nice ventilation features and quite comfortable protection that moulds to the shape of your head. They can be as cheap as $90 for a one size fits all basic open faced stack hat...and as expensive as $1000-1500 for ultra light weight fancy dancy stuff.

Keep in mind that all helmets are single use, i.e. if you drop your helmet onto a hard surface from a decent height, it is recommended you replace it due to damaged structural integrity...they have an impact absortion that works effectively once and once only. This is why buying second hand helmets is a bad idea because you don't know the history. Also usually the motivation for skimping on the cost because it's like carrying around a glass vase. But it's also like choosing whether your seatbelt is made out of a cotton wool strand or a nylon strap. The beauty about being a helmet manufacturer is you don't have any liability if someone dies - ADR's aren't that strict either.

Budget and safety gear don't belong in the same sentence. If it's just some motorkhana sort of stuff then that's no biggie, but when you're hitting a track...even the pros don't skimp :P

Oops, that turned into a bit of a rant. I just get pissed off when I see motorcyclists riding along in shorts, thongs, a singlet and a $90 helmet...

Yea there are real cheap options from like $100 for a car I wouldn't worry to much about it unless it's for a bike where mines $600 (On Special) cause it's a Shoei I saw some $1500 brand new racing Shoeis the main difference was substantially more airflow and amazing graphic designs

Good store make sure you visit their clearance center though, substantially lower prices

Main difference between cheap helmets and expensive ones are mostly in weight and comfort, not safety.

Well, that's what the guy who sold my helmet told me.

It is true, but after you wear a $100 helmet for a couple of laps your gonna wish you bought something that is more comfortable or with more vents if your in a track car with no climate control :rofl:

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Well I dunno about the safety vs cost thing...I'd be more inclined to believe that cheap helmet manufacturers spend about as much time on the safety design as they do creature comforts. ADR's are not difficult to meet at all and the cheap helmets certainly will not exceed standards. If answering the question which you'd rather have a fall/crash in...a $100 helmet or a $500 helmet...who would actually choose the former? You can make back the extra $400 with the brain you save...not so easy to recover your brain after damage :rofl:

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies, now that you mention it helmets are annoying after wearing them for a while so probably want something comfortable when you ripping around the track. Ill go check them out at some stores

MrWindsurf Experienced

MrWindsurf

Posted
Posted

This is my helmet I bought from Revolution Racegear : http://www.revolutionracegear.com.au/index...rimary&CDO=

Its a fantastic helmet, very comfey. As has been mentioned before Its insurance for your head, can you really put a price on that. Hopefully you never need to use your helmet the way it's been designed but in the event you do, you want to make sure its going to work.

frozenpod Enthusiast

frozenpod

Posted
Posted

I use this.

http://www.revolutionracegear.com.au/index...Primary&CDO=

Much better quality in terms of build and comfort than the Elcheapo $100 units.

It has more face protection than the cheaper open face helmets and I was told is made in the Bell factory (by Revolution Racegear), the older Bell model with RPM branding which was $900 when branded and sold as a Bell helmet.

It also has the higher snell approval rating.

How much better it is I don't know but the foam was thicker than the $100 units the case is not plastic and after wearing a number of helmets riding bikes ect for extended periods of time this has been the best helmet for comfort and snug fit for my head I have owned.

JEPPE Mentor

JEPPE

Posted
Posted

All helmets are approved safety wise... don't worry too much about price, as long as the company has a rep and its about $200 or over it will be safe enough. MORE IMPORTANTLY: Find a helmet that fits your head right! Buying a $1200 Arai isn't going to save you if it's the wrong shape or too big. ALWAYS go for the tighter fit as they loosen up heaps!

I use this ICON Airfram Clamore Black

icon-airframe-claymore-black.jpg

RRP $449.95, a great fit for me with Carbon/Kevlar shell, and the best Fog Free visor around.

They also do a less fancy helmet for $189.95, perfectly safe and actually really good looking in the flesh.

Icon_Alliance_SSR_Tyranny_Helmet_Rubatone_Black_detail.jpg

Personally I wouldn't bother buying a Shoei or Arai as no brand is perfect, they have had problems and the difference in safety is marginal.

If you want to know good dealers to buy from let me know :thumbsup:

Zaver Experienced

Zaver

Posted
Posted

If u dont wanna spend to much on a helmet and just want it for the track... This is a good pace to pick up one.. The cheapest i have found... I got the same one!! -> http://www.crazysales.com.au/xracer-motorc...-red_p1679.html

Borci88 Veteran

Borci88

Posted
Posted
If u dont wanna spend to much on a helmet and just want it for the track... This is a good pace to pick up one.. The cheapest i have found... I got the same one!! -> http://www.crazysales.com.au/xracer-motorc...-red_p1679.html

That would be like wrapping your head twice with bubble wrap and saying its enough protection..

Zaver Experienced

Zaver

Posted
Posted
That would be like wrapping your head twice with bubble wrap and saying its enough protection..

Hmm.. Have u ever used that helmet?? If not dont comment becuase i have one and i know how good it is.. Not everything in this world is good only if it is expensive... If you would read his first post he is looking for the cheapest option..

God dam Stereotyping mind!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • pacman_1219
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By pacman_1219 · Posted

      Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...