Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys looking some information regarding Nistune, wanna tune My BNR with it and need some advice, how good is for under 500 hp at engine and what is the different with PFC?

i was looking for information and found nothing, only what i know at this time its cheap then pfc and also plays with ignition if there is pinging

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323615-how-good-is-nistune/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Agreed, it is very good, I have had a Dr Drift remap & have now changed over to the Nistune. No reflection on Sam(Dr Drift's) work at all as the only reason I changed over was due to Sam being in Melbourne & I am here in Queensland so retunes have been impossible when I upgraded bits & pieces.

The Nistune has enabled me to increase my power to a little over 200rwkw in my RB20DET. I am now at the limits of the Nistune & have been advised to go for something like a wolf v4 or v500 next to achieve the 230rwkw mark as it has more scope & smaller rpm tuning increments ie 150 rpm steps.

For an everyday tuning system Nistune is great. For more advanced tuning aftermarket ECU is better.

I have more than a few mates who have PFC. They all rave about it as a great system. But correct me if I am wrong but APEXi are gone. I am not bagging out PFC at all but I believe you are better to go something more current.

Stop in at your tuners & have a chat. Take with you all the plans you have for your ride & let him/her know what your eventual goal is. That will help them help you with the correct choice for your application

The Nistune has enabled me to increase my power to a little over 200rwkw in my RB20DET. I am now at the limits of the Nistune & have been advised to go for something like a wolf v4 or v500 next to achieve the 230rwkw mark as it has more scope & smaller rpm tuning increments ie 150 rpm steps.

who told you that? the same person whos going to profit from you changing?

nistune sounds pretty good, its essentially a bridge into the stock ecu

so you can adjust everything as needed and update it as you like

apexi still exist and are still producing products, but only some in limited volumes

and youll find ECR33 PFC is discontinued as NEC have run out of processor used FP74

you can still purchase other PFC's brand new

Power is no limit for the Nistune, I have done 600+rwhp GTRs that are much more drivable than with any other ECU ive seen.

If your Tuner is selling you an ECU because the Nistune is at its limit he is is dodgy.

PFC is not anywhere near as smart as a Nistune, Nistune even use functional knock control were a PFC only warn you.

I tune for a few Shops and Nistune is the most common ECU in Nissans now and its quite often replacing other Aftermarket ECUs inc PFC.

Perth car scene is now targeted by the cops and Emission tests are the norm with the Nistune making this test very simple even in some hardcore cars.

Edited by N I B

the pfc has a slightly better mapping system than the nistune (more cells) but the nistune is a better overall system in my opinion. sure it doesn't have a hand controller, but the cost of the unit plus tuning is generally less than the cost of just a pfc itself without tuning.

power wise it should produce the same power as any other unit as the power you make is purely based off the skill of the tuner rather than the ecu.

it should also handle a hell of a lot more power than 200kw on a r32. according to the nistune site the speedlab got 373kw out of a rb20 running a nistune.

The Nistune has enabled me to increase my power to a little over 200rwkw in my RB20DET. I am now at the limits of the Nistune & have been advised to go for something like a wolf v4 or v500 next to achieve the 230rwkw mark as it has more scope & smaller rpm tuning increments ie 150 rpm steps.

For an everyday tuning system Nistune is great. For more advanced tuning aftermarket ECU is better.

Have a read of the Nistune thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Nistune-t181930.html or some of the dyno result threads, there are plenty of cars making over 500rwhp and still not hitting the limits of the Nistune.

Coming to think of it, i had also heard they had gone out of business. All lies lol, i never really paid much attention to it

Edited by Hanaldo
Power is no limit for the Nistune, I have done 600+rwhp GTRs that are much more drivable than with any other ECU ive seen.

If your Tuner is selling you an ECU because the Nistune is at its limit he is is dodgy.

PFC is not anywhere near as smart as a Nistune, Nistune even use functional knock control were a PFC only warn you.

I tune for a few Shops and Nistune is the most common ECU in Nissans now and its quite often replacing other Aftermarket ECUs inc PFC.

Perth car scene is now targeted by the cops and Emission tests are the norm with the Nistune making this test very simple even in some hardcore cars.

Just wanted t double check and sau is the best place of that ;) bought the licensy cable and almost pay amount same as used pfc cost and doesnot wanted to make mistake

The Nistune has enabled me to increase my power to a little over 200rwkw in my RB20DET. I am now at the limits of the Nistune & have been advised to go for something like a wolf v4 or v500 next to achieve the 230rwkw mark as it has more scope & smaller rpm tuning increments ie 150 rpm steps.

did something happen between Nistune and Wolf? heard similar stories before as well

anyways, 290rwkw, Nistune - maps for both BP98 and E85 - nice piece of kit ;)

i cant see how nistune would be at its power limits

its just maps and numbers

the only time it would be phyiscal possible to be at a power limit, is when you max injectors

air

fuel

spark

make power, not mapping, so it doesnt sound right to me

i would not expect power gains changing ECUs

you would only see a power gain if its not tuned correctly

Agreed, it is very good, I have had a Dr Drift remap & have now changed over to the Nistune. No reflection on Sam(Dr Drift's) work at all as the only reason I changed over was due to Sam being in Melbourne & I am here in Queensland so retunes have been impossible when I upgraded bits & pieces.

The Nistune has enabled me to increase my power to a little over 200rwkw in my RB20DET. I am now at the limits of the Nistune & have been advised to go for something like a wolf v4 or v500 next to achieve the 230rwkw mark as it has more scope & smaller rpm tuning increments ie 150 rpm steps.

For an everyday tuning system Nistune is great. For more advanced tuning aftermarket ECU is better.

I have more than a few mates who have PFC. They all rave about it as a great system. But correct me if I am wrong but APEXi are gone. I am not bagging out PFC at all but I believe you are better to go something more current.

Stop in at your tuners & have a chat. Take with you all the plans you have for your ride & let him/her know what your eventual goal is. That will help them help you with the correct choice for your application

who tuned your nistune? many workshops i've spoken to all say PFC is good. only one workshop said PFC are good but they steer customers away from it and recommend nistune due to the fact they are cheaper, also does everything the PFC does

anyways, 290rwkw, Nistune - maps for both BP98 and E85 - nice piece of kit ;)

by 'maps for both BP98 and E85'; do you mean you can switch between them on the ECU from one day to the next, or the different tunes are on file at your tuner's shop?

really happy to hear good for it, anyway why it shouldnot work properly if standart ecu is remapable? Guiltoy will tune it and i will post up results, car will be boosted with GT35R

more a point to say it's versatile enough to handle to the two fuels, etc...

i've got the USB consult cable, but don't have a laptop. If i did, i'd put NIstune on it and load the two maps. But there is an E85 outlet 5mins from my place, and for a car that's barely driven, i don't have the to switch constantly.

i guess to answer your question, yes you could easily switch between the two with a laptop and Nistune (still have to drain the tank first though).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...