Jump to content
SAU Community

Who Would Be Faster

GUN_METAL_GTR32
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 160
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted
sorry for the simpleton question, but would it be a different situation if it was an r34 gtr?

I'd say so.

Then you get similar weight, more HP (in the 34) and similar traction capability, so they would be even with the 34 inching ahead the further you go.

NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
Posted
sorry for the simpleton question, but would it be a different situation if it was an r34 gtr?

no

this is a pretty pointless thread... rwd has more potential to run the quicker time but the awd will be easier to setup and more consistent

at this power level there will be umpteen problems both will face before they even get a proper side by side run that both are happy with... even then the loser will have a million drag racers excuses

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted
Can't help but laugh at the number of people putting their money on the GTR. They're quick, undoubtedly, but really. Check how many AWD cars are below 10 seconds in Australia, heck in the world. Now check for under 10s RWD. You'll be going for years sorting through how many RWD cars there are. They've been developing RWD drag cars for a lot longer, AWD is still playing catch up in this field. And can I ask, if you can put all your power through two wheels without spin, why do you need the front wheels working too? AWD was developed for when you couldn't do that.

In short, my money's on the GTT.

??? Lets compare apples with apples here.

Youre telling me a RWD with a H Pattern and a GT42 is going to be able to launch and put all of its power down to the ground?

LOL

Maybe search for under 10s RWD - NON AUTO.

Anyone can stick their foot/finger on the brake and stall it up.

Anyways, let us know the result once you 2 end up racing.

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted
If i had to bet, it would be on the GTR.

Those few crucial seconds that its able to put most, if not all of the power down will see it ahead of the GTT the entire 1/4 mile. dunno about 1/2 mile though.

Yeah. the longer it goes, the more my money would shift to the GTT, but over 400m I doubt the GTT would have the power to overcome the GTRs better launch.

It'd be an interesting race, and bench racing this sort of stuff is fun.

As for RWD being more "developed" for racing, I don't think that counts in this situation. From what I can gather these cars aren't absolute straight line weapons running 2' wide slicks and build on a ladder chassis with a 4 link rear and such. They are stinking hot street cars.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
If i had to bet, it would be on the GTR.

Those few crucial seconds that its able to put most, if not all of the power down will see it ahead of the GTT the entire 1/4 mile. dunno about 1/2 mile though.

if it was half mile the gt-t would win for sure. that's because it comes down to pure hp, weight, resistance, etc. traction off the line isn't as crucial.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

If I were to bet, my money would be on both cars not making it to the finish line.

This really is a pointless argument.

Neither cars are really any good for drag racing, without going for a 4-link / ladderbar rear end and tubbing it, neither car will be able to take a tyre much bigger than 10" wide.

If you wanna have a drag car, buy a torana or a capri, you WILL run 10's with 450hp and slicks.

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted
This really is a pointless argument.

That has nothing to do with it.

If it's so pointless, why are you here?

Seriously, GTFO if it's such an insult to your sensibilities.

XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted
hay mate

ill have some pretty good suspension setup and wide as f**k rims on the back ill be investing heavily on traction and keeping it down as best i can.

mickey thompson drag slicks should be good enough lol.

also throwing the whole nismo suspension arms catalogue at it

A whole nismo catalogue of parts- dose not make "good suspension" especially not for drag racing... If that's your knowledge level, expect 13-14 sec 1/4 mile times.

Oh and "wide as f**k rims" are what 10 inches??? 12 maybe? Bahahahahaha!

The GTR will break a driveshaft or half shaft while launching while the GTT kicks to the side violently at the 60ft line and kisses the wall.

And destroys the pretty carbon parts and super custom awsome go fast paint job.... yet again Bahahahahahahah!

Unless you put an auto in it, youll never catch the GTR.

Correct!

Sounds like a dyno queen to me!

Shure dose... who cares how fast a dyno queen goes....

GTR= Win

GTT dyno queen- Fail

GTT well set up and manual- Close second, higher trap speed.

J.

snozzle Mentor

snozzle

Posted
Posted

there are many variables as stated before, but assuming that both cars are setup correctly and the guy driving the 33gtr isnt a dudddd, theres no way the gt-t will make up for lost traction

id like to see fat racing slicks actually fit inside gt-t gaurds, they are pretty small

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted
Who is sillier, person spending $150k on a 34 Gt-t and failing or a person keyboard bashing him for doing it who may be proven wrong?

How is spending $150k on any car any different, if the owner is happy with it?

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted
Ohh touch a nerve did I?

No, no.

I've been doing this internet thing for about 15 years and am yet to understand why people involve themselves in a discussion to which they have no interest.

Seriously, if you think the discussion is pointless then remove yourself from it. It's not hard.

You wouldn't walk up to someone in real life and stand there talking over them with "I don't care" "You're conversation is pointless" "You're boring" while they try and speak. So why do it here?

If you find it pointless then f**k off. It's quite simple. Those in a discussion that you find pointless clearly don't share your feelings and quite frankly don't give a f**k.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted
If I were to bet, my money would be on both cars not making it to the finish line.

This really is a pointless argument.

Neither cars are really any good for drag racing, without going for a 4-link / ladderbar rear end and tubbing it, neither car will be able to take a tyre much bigger than 10" wide.

If you wanna have a drag car, buy a torana or a capri, you WILL run 10's with 450hp and slicks.

Here is the rest of what i said, I clearly did have some involvement in the thread, by saying that neither car is really suited for drag racing in standardish form.

As a matter of fact that if I was talking to someone about this in person, I would say that it's a pointless idea.

So...how about you take some of your own advise and STFU, this is what forums are about...If no one replied to questions (even if they arn't what the OP wants to hear) than forums would cease to exist.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...