Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Found this an interesting read, and since buying my car recently I have read a lot of people have had problems using Shell V Power in there cars..

I have been Running BP Ultimate with no problems so far..

http://www.treehugger.com/files/2010/06/bp...-gulf-spill.php

Found this an interesting read, and since buying my car recently I have read a lot of people have had problems using Shell V Power in there cars..

I have been Running BP Ultimate with no problems so far..

http://www.treehugger.com/files/2010/06/bp...-gulf-spill.php

98 octane should be 98 octane, no matter who is selling it. Most refinaries are shared anyway...

I normally run 98 octane from absolutely anyone without any problems (eg put in mobil 98 after draining the tank, then filled with caltex 98 for the blue mountains cruise). I firmly beleive if your tune is high strung enough to notice variation in 98 rated petrol it is too aggressive.

This is the worst case scenario for BP...it's an environmental issue...and BP have struggled to fix it. This is a PR nightmare for them. Even if they get the leak rectified ASAP, it'll throw everything upside down.

I also believe other Oil companies will seriously reconsider the use of their off shore oil rigs. It can go one of 2 ways..they can do their best to upgrade the security of them to show they will prevent something like this happening. Or cut their losses of the potential another PR nightmare and stop using them.

If thats the case, I might start using Shell, at least that way I can save 4 cents a Ltr...

mate i run nothing but vpower in my r33, don't know if its placebo or not but i get better fuel economy from good old'e vpower rather than ultimate!

my dad works at the shell oil refinery in sydney where they produce the stuff.shell in nsw supplies bp and bp supplies shell in queensland as they dont have their own refineries in each state.

BP however do put some extra additives in their fuel that they get from shell in nsw that magicically clean your engine and make your car like a race car LOL.

but with shell, mobil, bp they are pretty much the same in terms of performance and economy id say vortex is just as good but has been known to have some bad batches of fuel hope this helps

Never had issues with Caltex 98. In fact it's all I run.

Personally I used to find Shell had a placebo of more grunt, but less economy (Which after reading, was found to be because Shell runs more cleaning agents then Caltex, hence less fuel to burn)

Caltex gave better economy then Shell, but ever so slightly less top end punch (Placebo again) but the car sounded like it idled smoother.

BP I've only ever run once as I got the worlds worst batch of fuel that caused it to kick and buck and belch flames.

Personally, I swap between Caltex and Shell without a second thought, I mainly stick to Caltex as it's cheaper for me.

just another tip never fill up at the the servo when the tanker truck is there you will get the last of the fuel at the bottom which has all the crap

and keep your receipts had some shell fuel years back at a little independent servo which was full of water and fudged my motor had receipt got the fuel tested and took it to court and won.

Yeah thats been so much help, I have had a few people tell me about bad batches from Shell, but at the end of the day it could happen to any petrol station. Just means I won't have to worry about finding a BP when I need fuel....

:P

Found this an interesting read, and since buying my car recently I have read a lot of people have had problems using Shell V Power in there cars..

I have been Running BP Ultimate with no problems so far..

http://www.treehugger.com/files/2010/06/bp...-gulf-spill.php

So let me get this straight.... millions of lites of oil have spilled into the ocean creating what is probably one of the largest man made environmental disaster ever in history, thousands of dead wildlife and fish, thousands of americans now ruined and/or without a livelyhood and all you can think of is how will you be able to cope with having to use Shell V power now?

So let me get this straight.... millions of lites of oil have spilled into the ocean creating what is probably one of the largest man made environmental disaster ever in history, thousands of dead wildlife and fish, thousands of americans now ruined and/or without a livelyhood and all you can think of is how will you be able to cope with having to use Shell V power now?

yes.

what is your point?

So let me get this straight.... millions of lites of oil have spilled into the ocean creating what is probably one of the largest man made environmental disaster ever in history, thousands of dead wildlife and fish, thousands of americans now ruined and/or without a livelyhood and all you can think of is how will you be able to cope with having to use Shell V power now?

All of which will not affect him in any way, shape or form. The o ly affect to him clearly is the fuel. There's nothing wrong with opening a thread and asking for advice.

So let me get this straight.... millions of lites of oil have spilled into the ocean creating what is probably one of the largest man made environmental disaster ever in history, thousands of dead wildlife and fish, thousands of americans now ruined and/or without a livelyhood and all you can think of is how will you be able to cope with having to use Shell V power now?

Yep, bit of an embarrassing thread...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...