Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking to buy some new 18 inch Work XT7's and need to know what offset and width I can go. I was hoping I could fit 9.5 inch as I think they would just fit with a little guard massaging.

I don't want spacers so I need to get this right first time. Any ideas guys?

post-63525-1279295509_thumb.jpg

I'm looking to buy some new 18 inch Work XT7's and need to know what offset and width I can go. I was hoping I could fit 9.5 inch as I think they would just fit with a little guard massaging.

I don't want spacers so I need to get this right first time. Any ideas guys?

Hey Scotty,

Spoolin and I worked out that the perfect fitment is a 9.5 with a +35 offset for the M35.

This will get it flush to the body without any rolling of guards and clear the front suspension arm by about 7mm. So no mods to the body and 100% no scrubbing.

It will also mean you get that deeper spoke pull on the XT7's that make them look soo good!

Im pretty sure the XT7 come in a 18x9.5 +38 which would be sweet with a 3mm spacer to give a little extra clearance on the front suspension arm (if it wasnt for that arm, we could easily fit 10.5 to 11" all the way round!

Edited by bbenny
Hey Scotty,

Spoolin and I worked out that the perfect fitment is a 9.5 with a +35 offset for the M35.

This will get it flush to the body without any rolling of guards and clear the front suspension arm by about 7mm. So no mods to the body and 100% no scrubbing.

It will also mean you get that deeper spoke pull on the XT7's that make them look soo good!

Im pretty sure the XT7 come in a 18x9.5 +38 which would be sweet with a 3mm spacer to give a little extra clearance on the front suspension arm (if it wasnt for that arm, we could easily fit 10.5 to 11" all the way round!

As Scotty stated he didn't want spacers, sucks that it is hard to fill the guards without having to add spacers.

If the suspension arm has 7mm clearance and he went with a +38 rim, that would reduce the clearance to 4mm. I assume this would be running too close for comfort?

Mmm 4mm is cutting it close as there is flex in those parts. I would rather push them out a bit more and rollll. ;)

Looks like +30's are the go then?

+ 30 will be fine, you will just have to roll the lip on the rear guard or just run a tyre size down so they are a little more stretched.

I just would be careful on the front guard.

Here is how a +35 sits on my car - as you can see its pretty flush up front. So +30 will sit 5mm further out, the rear will be fine with just a roll if needed, but the front guards are already rolled.

Honestly you will be fine with a stretched tyre.

_MG_7823.jpg_MG_7824.jpg

_MG_7827.jpg

  • 1 year later...

Sounds about right.

I provided that to Braid, and they said they'd suggest an 18 x 8 +40-42, but because they were a wider rim they'd sit out more and fill the guards a bit better.

So that's probably the way I'll go. A nice set of these:

1222869591.preview.jpg

http://samotorsporttyres.com.au/content/winrace-1

Sounds about right.

I provided that to Braid, and they said they'd suggest an 18 x 8 +40-42, but because they were a wider rim they'd sit out more and fill the guards a bit better.

So that's probably the way I'll go. A nice set of these:

1222869591.preview.jpg

http://samotorsportt...ntent/winrace-1

+40/+42 would look crap. go minimum +30...

an 8 inch rim isn't that wide...

Agreed!

I ran AR-X 18x8 +40, but when I went to V35 18x8 +30; looks so much better! Consider +30 the absolute minimum; then get a little braver.

Also make sure you don't go too small on rolling dia, even 20's can get swallowed up in those big wheelarches if you go too low a profile.

Yeah you need atleast an 8.5+30 to near fill the guards.

mine were 8.5 +20

they sat awesome. 5 or 6 mm out the guard. worked well because of the ARX over fenders.

I'm getting tyres fitted Saturday. I'm looking at a 245/45-18 as there is a greater choice in that size. Also thinking of a 235/45-18 to get a little stretch to help clear the guards. Not that big of a choice in that size either. I like the fact the 245/45-18 is a little taller than stock to help correct the spedo a little. I'm assuming all m35's read higher than actual speed. Just hope they don't hit the guards on bumps or steering lock.

I'm looking at nexen n1000, anyone had any experience with these?

Edited by slippylotion

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...