Jump to content
SAU Community

What Do You Recommend As The Next Step For My Car?

TUF250

By TUF250,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

gwilkinson34 Collaborator

gwilkinson34

Posted
Posted (edited)
let it wear in then try again, you need to slip the clutch to keep the revs up like an auto with a big stall converter does.

I'll give it a crack again sometime... can't be good for her though :miner:

Edited by gwilkinson34
R33 Sleeper Community Regular

R33 Sleeper

Posted
Posted
wtf for :D

op - just go buy some MT drag radials, than you wheel spin probs will be gone

Ive heard of lots of dudes using second for launching, more traction etc. Alot of guys actually see quicker 1/4 mile times and 0-100 times launching in second, technique my friend. :miner:

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted
Ive heard of lots of dudes using second for launching, more traction etc. Alot of guys actually see quicker 1/4 mile times and 0-100 times launching in second, technique my friend. :miner:

I think thats only for big power setups, certainly not for a stock turbo!

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

So, how well do Modded GTR's go here?*

*

1) Sorry for off topic

2) Sorry for not posting in already existing thread

3) I realise turbo choice, launch ability, tyres, and suspension would have MASSIVE effects on this

:P

TUF250 Proficient

TUF250

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the replies guys, new wheels and wider tyres are definately the next step.

Do people think that I will have any tune troubles from where I am (R&R particually) if I was to do the cheap eath boost mod to get 7-8psi all the time?

I was going to do this for the time being until I can put the cash together for a EBC and proper tune

Just want a little more in the mean time :P

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

if you are interested in 0 to 100 times and only that, you need as much help as you can

ditch the piggy back and stock ecu and get a stand alone, tune it aggressively and run 12psi

but youll need a few other mods for that too, heavy duty clutch, fuel pump, fmic

TUF250 Proficient

TUF250

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thats definately the plan longer term, I have already started saving as I want to do it all in one hit so all the supporting mods are there and in place. I was just thinking in the short term.

I think Ill stick with the new sticky tyres and the free boost mod and see what I get out of it, hopefully the computer dosnt crack the sads.

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted (edited)

This is the best advice in the thread.

Sell the car.

Buy another R33 that is worth maybe 3-4k more.

You will be getting at least $10-15k worth of mods for that extra $4k, reason is you never get any return on your investment with cars. I did exactly this, bought an R32 gts-t for $11.5k and I got a full rebuilt rb25det, $2k highflow turbo, exhaust, ecu, injectors, suspension, aftermarket ecu, fuel pump, bushes, new clutch etc. Even got the receipts for all the above adding up to over $20k.

Sure sometimes it can be fun building your own car up, personally I think its a stupid waste of money, buy someone else's project and with the ridiculous amount of money you have saved personalise it.

Edited by Rolls
TUF250 Proficient

TUF250

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah thats true, but I bought this one because it is so clean and tidy. it really is one of the best r33s I have ever seen. even a police offiecer said "Ive pulled over alot of r33s and this si the cleanest one Ive seen" :(

thats the only reason I would stick with it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...