Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i want real world experience and want a recommendation on where i should go to get a replacement turbo or get a rebuild. not after mass horse power but here is my current supporting mods

3inch hks exhaust

jjr dump pipe

splitfires

jjr stealth intercooler kit

k&n panel filter

turbosmart type 3 bov (i dont think that matters but yer)

im planning on running 1 bar with a nistune

so its up to everyone on here where should i go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326244-2000-in-hand-gcghypergear-or-other/
Share on other sites

How long are you planning to keep the car? How fast do you want to go?

If you are paying for the removal and replacement of the turbo then a hypergear rebuild will be within your budget and should deliver up to 220awkw with the stock injectors and afm. I have no personal experience with Hypergear but their reputation is growing.

If you are going to remove and replace it yourself you can afford a GCG rebuild - same power output with your current set up but with ball bearing centre. I have had one of these and it took me to 245awkw with bigger injectors and afm. Straight replacement with no installation problems.

If you are going to keep the car forever and want big power down the track get a GT3076. It can be tuned for up to 220awkw with what you have now and has potential for 300kw. But you will need another grand to make it happen.

There are a number of other new turbos or turbo rebuilders that members might recommend. Then there are the cheap Chinese copies which in my view are too much of a lottery!

1 - probably a while i love the car

2 - my wife or myself will be doing the removal and install

3 - really only want to run 1 bar and what ever power that makes will be fine but sounds like you have got it worked out pretty well how many psi were you running when you made 245 awkw, what size injectors, z32 afm??. what have you currently got on your car?

Go GCG there are a better turbo, Ball bearing core etc and Proven to give bullet proof results,

That being said there is nothing wrong with the Hypergear turbos, but if you have the budget I'd be going GCG.

By comparing results Hypergear's standard high flow is more responsive mid range while GCG's made 6kws more uptop.

Both of them can perform highflows with Garrett BB cores while Hypergear also makes .82 OEM patented housings with large can actuator as a part of their PU high flow series. If you are going for more HP down the track its probably worth checking that out which I have seem 295rwkws on 20psi with stock RB25det.

I would be speaking to both of them and see what they can offer to suit your budget.

Edited by kwickr33
1 - probably a while i love the car

2 - my wife or myself will be doing the removal and install

3 - really only want to run 1 bar and what ever power that makes will be fine but sounds like you have got it worked out pretty well how many psi were you running when you made 245 awkw, what size injectors, z32 afm??. what have you currently got on your car?

Made that power with the GCG turbo at 1 bar with 550 injectors and a Z32 afm. Forgot to see if you have replaced your fuel pump but if not you need a Walbro or Bosch 044 in tank preferably wired for full battery voltage. That should give you 210 -220 without the new injectors/afm. BTW GCG offer a (small) discount to SAU members if you think to ask for it.

Currently I have all the stuff in my sig at the bottom of the post but waiting for my Rb30 to be built. (Currently driving a $500 Diamante)! Hopefully can report back in 2 or 3 weeks.

gt3076r-iw dual ball bearing turbo + 18psi actuator, z32 afm + fuel cut defender, Splitfire coilpacks, bosch 040, nismo fpr, S15 450cc injectors (series 1 stagea), fmic & apexi pod, jjr bellmouth dump pipe, 3" exhaust,

Toshi ecu remap chip + AEM fic/8 piggy~back (like greddy ultimate), MV Automatic shift kit, 249rwkw @ 16psi / 1.1bar front driveshaft pulled for rwd dyno. Will make at least 10% more with an updated remap to the ecu chip & larger injectors

Its a highflow made by Bill keen at Adelaide Turbo Services, around $2500 for the full kit including lines - thats a garrett bb 3076 core, flowed front nissan housing, rear .73 a/r AVOturboworld skyline exhaust housing

OP6 GCG or

R33 rear GCG?

The OP6 will do around 260-270rwkw on 18-20psi

So if you only want to run 1bar it'll feel a tad lazy, but will be nice either way. Ensure you get a bigger actuator with it as the factory one will be no good :laugh:

By comparing results Hypergear's standard high flow is more responsive mid range while GCG's made 6kws more uptop.

Both of them can perform highflows with Garrett BB cores while Hypergear also makes .82 OEM patented housings with large can actuator as a part of their PU high flow series. If you are going for more HP down the track its probably worth checking that out which I have seem 295rwkws on 20psi with stock RB25det.

I would be speaking to both of them and see what they can offer to suit your budget.

You wanna split hairs over 6kw?

Mate that is dyno variance between two power pulls with the same car... Let alone different time/place/conditions. :)

Hypergears are not OEM (Nissan) .82 rears unless i am mistaken (totally ope to be corrected there). They are newly supplied housings. Nissan never offered a .82 rear.

Side point - You cannot machine a factory housing out to .82 A/R size anyway.

There are other dynamics to take into account when machining out turbine housings to within a whisker as it's not just the outlet that then needs machining.

The entire intake port needs milling and so on as this is where the bottleneck is in a turbine housing anyway, which overall weakens the housing if you take too much meat off.

Weak/thin housing & 650-800 degrees = cracks over time.

GCG's items are around the $1750 marker, a ball bearing from Hypergear would be close to the same price as well. Just remember to account for the better actuator as well :laugh:

Journal/Bush bearings are obviously cheaper and probably around the $900-$1100 marker IIRC.

The $2000 is just for the turbo. Nistune is after I get it all fixed

the one question I haven't looked into. Is the stock turbo ball bearing?

Stock turbo is ball bearing. They can be rebuilt with ball bearing or journal (bush) bearings.

I am just having a standard hi-flow garret core (plain bearings), and OP6 housing fitted to my replacement engine. Nistune and a good (4-5 hour) tune on a 4WD hub dyno. Should be done by this time next week. I'll let you know how it goes. Should be good for 200 AWkw, which'll do me. Mine std was 168kw (at wheels). everything else is staying standard. Already has a 3" system though. There are two trains of thought on the ball bearing centres. At 40,000 rpm + the oil alone is enough to keep the shaft spinning freely. Also Very high revs can cause ball bearings to drag and lead to failure. Talk to you Turbo rebuilder......

my views are that if it was ball bearing stock its going to stay ball bearing, so looks like gcg is the go. will everyone agree that a gcg highflow with a 1 bar actuator, bosch 040 hard wired and a nistune be sufficient to keep the car reliable?

x2 this sort of combination is one of the most used (on SAU) and reliable combinations. It should take you to a happy place.

I would give it more of a nudge than 14psi as there is little harm to be done while they are tuning the car. You control the level of boost with your right foot anyway on a day to day basis so why not map it a little higher while you are at it.

Turn up the boost until it stops making easy power and leave it there, something a competent tuner will do anyway.

The relay approach is what I meant but yer deffinately not going to hook it straight to the battery. That is a good point I may aswell just take it to whatever it makes rather then hold it back. Now just to organize the parts. :P. Thanks everyone

If you've got 2G to spend on a turbo its probably worth getting the new .82 turbine housing with OEM bolt pattern running a Garrett GT3076R core and .60 comp housing. Very similar response as the GCG high flow but lot more mid rang and top end power, Plus the cost is almost the same.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...