Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I saw this kit a while ago but what put me off was that you need to have the assembly balanced so more than just a bit of DIY is involved.

There is someone on the who is selling rebuilt stell wheel turbos for about $1250 exchange which also seemed reasonable.

I ended up buying some new Garretts but those guys on ebay had some good feedback. Let us know how it all goes. Would be very interested to find out results.

If it's too good to be true - It probably is.

Stay WELL clear of that.

Add to the fact you cannot just "bolt" it together. To be done properly you would need to have it balanced and so on adding on additional costs.

Meaning you might as well pay somewhere more reasonable to do it.

Add to the fact R32 N1's are horribly laggy turbos for bugger all power.

makes me laugh sometimes.... has anyone here actually rebuilt a turbo in their backyard without balancing and actually testing?

Balancing is overated.. whats the worste thats going to happen?

Try it. I have. One turbo i did is still alive on the car 6 years later. No balancing done at all.

makes me laugh sometimes.... has anyone here actually rebuilt a turbo in their backyard without balancing and actually testing?

Well I don't have any experience, but this is the interwebz so that wont stop me from shooting my mouth off.

Balancing is overated.. whats the worste thats going to happen?

Bearings chew out quickly and turbo dies

Try it. I have. One turbo i did is still alive on the car 6 years later. No balancing done at all.

Sample size of one is statistically meaningless. The balancing process can merely involve verification and no actual modification.

Well your call but for the effort to R&R turbos on an RB26 I'd be using ball bearing bolt on ones . The reasons being that they are more reliable and longer lasting - often the wheels in them are later aero tech too . Don't forget with R32 GTRs Nissan was doing their R&D back in about 1988 and a LOT of water has been under the bridge turbo wise since then .

Yes the old N1's were really laggy and only seemed to work with the boost screwed right up .

Then when the old bush/plate thrust bearings lunch themselves , all that work and money to spend again .

Really I think the OE R34 BB turbos should be seen as a practical base line .

You time money patience , cheers A .

First of these are just steel wheels for the stock turbos, doesnt make them N1s.Second if the bearings already lasted almost 20 yrs whats to say new ones wont? So these will just be stock turbos with steel wheels which should spool the same and will have 360* thrust bearings and i also have a divided TT pipe to decrease spool time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
    • The fact that US/JDM plates actually fit the skyline bumpers properly is a big, big thing for me as they are the correct dimensions. Annoyingly you can't opt for a normal plate (or plate combination) in that size. You have to make up your own one, and at that point you'd still know it wasn't randomly assigned. 
    • Well, really, that's any ECU, because it's not so much the ECU that the tuner connects to, but a laptop that's connected to the ECU. You have to have the tuning software installed locally. The "remote" part is essentially just remote desktop (RDP) or VNC type access. Nevertheless, if you're looking to upgrade, then you're immediately in the Haltech/Link territory, both of which can be done by any number of competent tuners here in Oz. But without a dyno, you'll definitely also need a wideband O2 sensor fitted, and you'll probably be relying on "auto" tuning a bit, where you drive it around under various loads and then apply the corrections that the ECU learns (basically applying the fuel trims that the ECU has to do to correct the mixtures). Tuning the timing is a little harder. It can be difficult to trust the old OEM knock sensors on RBs, so it is definitely best to have someone who knows what they're listening for, with knock ears (a piezo microphone connected to the engine, and and little amp and headphones so the listener can hear the angry men with hammers who live in the engine). That is more difficult to do remotely, and I suspect the only sane way is to be quite conservative on timing. But that's OK. You're probably waaaaay better off with conservative timing where you are. What is the fuel situation? 98RON available? Or low grade jungle juice?
    • I see your point, I didn't think too deep into it, was purely focused on the price. There's no bad blood between myself and GSM, they acknowledged the price was cheaper else where and at the time couldn't match it. 
×
×
  • Create New...