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and if we're talking specifics, i don't believe Rob tunes Nistune - but if you had a Wolf ecu, Rob would have to be right up there considering how well he knows the product

100% agree, if your decision is ecu based then I can see you point. If not not just Rob both there are plenty of very decent Mechanics/tuners who would do a great job.

Hey Aaron it's DMD not DND just to clear it up. No probs with any of them shops it's just down to how much you want to spend and where you want to take it.

Posting from my phone FTW! Stupid auto text.

i do all the mechanical work on my car my self, so Trents system works perfectly for me!

just remember as he does no mechanical work, only tuning... he can only work with what you give him, some people have been sent away, trent is very good... but no one can polish a turd!

Yes we did do Jesse's car and we also did his good mates 626 crazy piece of work at 360fwkw very scary and funncar with all that power at the front. Lane skipping fun.

We also use all quality Martini products thanks Jesse

Status.

Of small amount of tuners I have dealt with Trent & Cat have by far been the best to deal with.

Trent will take the time to get things right and if there is ever any issues he is always happy to work with you to get the tune you are after.

Every dollar I have spent with Status was/and is worth it.

The one that went bang at calder?

That would not be Trent's fault, hence why I asked who built the motor. Made a big mess, not good when a motor disintergrates during a pass...

Bit of a shame as many were interested in seeing what it would clock up on the boards.

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    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
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    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
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