Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 111
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Aus delivered R32GTR's had some things and different stuff, such as:

260KM dash

no speed limiter?

small rubber aerial on the roof near the rear windscreen

tail light wiring setup was different and indicators at the back were orange lens

20mm wider front seats

transfercase oil cooler and electric pump

number plate bracket wider and rear bar number plate recess wider to fit aus plates

side intrusion bars.

Thats all I can remember, there is probably more.

Also from around 1992 for JDM models headlights were a little different to earlier ones (parker light diffuser removed), side intrusion bars became standard and thats part of the reason why later GTR's were heavier than the 1989-1991 GTR's.

haha for fat aussies.

also a NISSAN badge on the bonnet

Yep for bigger butts lolz.

The headlights were wired up differently too for Aus delivered GTR's.....

So that when high beam was selected, low beam would stay on. 70% sure on that one.

Can anyone clarify?

re colours, there were only 2 models to come in exclusive colours in the GTR range, that is, no choice, you want this car you get this colour

NISMO edition - Gun Metal Grey

N1 - Crystal White

There were a couple of very limited release colours, but none that i know of which were exclusive other than the above

Also some small N1 facts

Windscreen washer bottle - due to no rear wiper, the design is slightly different and only houses one little pump where as the normal GTR's have 2, 1 for rear wiper, 1 for fronts

No radio control buttons on the dash, instead a blank cap in their place

Solid disk rotors instead of drilled

Front brake air guides

All the ABS wiring was left in, it was just the units and solid lines which were removed, and of course different master cylinder

Yep for bigger butts lolz.

The headlights were wired up differently too for Aus delivered GTR's.....

So that when high beam was selected, low beam would stay on. 70% sure on that one.

Can anyone clarify?

The low beams do turn off when high beam is switched.

Aus delivered R32GTR's had some things and different stuff, such as:

260KM dash

no speed limiter?

small rubber aerial on the roof near the rear windscreen

tail light wiring setup was different and indicators at the back were orange lens

20mm wider front seats

transfercase oil cooler and electric pump

number plate bracket wider and rear bar number plate recess wider to fit aus plates

side intrusion bars.

Thats all I can remember, there is probably more.

Also from around 1992 for JDM models headlights were a little different to earlier ones (parker light diffuser removed), side intrusion bars became standard and thats part of the reason why later GTR's were heavier than the 1989-1991 GTR's.

This is the chassis number & parts listing for the Australian delivered GTR's. Having sat my import next to a local delivered example I can confidently say that the seats are the same.

Also the aerial was at the front of the roof, not the back. It replaced the one in the windscreen - hence the different part number for that.

Wierd, random stuff they changed included the sun visors, adjustng the speed limiter and for some reason there is a listing for a jack.

index3.pdf

  • 2 weeks later...
Did you know that there were:

~Standard Cars = 40,390

~NISMO Group A Evolution = 560

~V-Spec = 1,453

~V-Spec II = 1,303

~N1 Race Version = 228

~43,930 in total produced of the 32 gtr

~Originally only 510 were suppose to be made to be within the rules of Japans Group A racing but demade was so stong that they released the model for unlimited production. Hence the 560 for the Nismo Group A total.

~The N1 doesn't have abs, air conditioning, sound system, rear wiper, trunk carpet, and the use of light-weight headlights and were only produced with a crystal white paint.

~The V-spec models have brembo brakes, a retuned attesa system to the N1 and nismo options and they weigh 50kg more than the standard gtrs. The V-spec II also had 17" rims

~Production of the Gtr started out in May 22, 1989

~The first Gtr was produced in February 4, 1969 know as PGC10.

This is an awesome thread and should be sticky'd as well. Also the first link doesn't work OHY34H

Don't know why the link doesn't work now, pretty sure it did before... Anyways, look @ my sig under the pic for a direct link (should work i hope)

And its really interesting how much people know detailed facts :P keep up the discussions! I unfortunately know jack about R32's lol

There was one car that NISSAN regarded as the most technologically advanced car in the world. Mr Itoh, chief engineer of the GT-R Project set his sights on bettering that car.

DID YOU KNOW THAT it was the... ???

You are both right. Just remember why nissan claimed 206kw when in fact it was no where near the real output. The gentlemens agreement.

Fun Fact; Nissan Austrlaia claimed 205KW for the GTR, not 206KW as per Japan.

porsche 959?

Correct dear sir! ;)

Next Q...

DID YOU KNOW THAT the R32 GT-R had a quite different drag coefficient to R31 Skylines of the day, which had Cd ratings of 0.31 & 0.33 for the 2 door & 4 door cars respectively. What was the R32 GT-R's Cd?

0.40 for the 32 GTR

0.35 for the 33 GTR

jeez you guys are good ;)

Next Q...

DID YOU KNOW THAT the R32 GT-R weighed quite a deal more than the Sierra Cosworth RS500?

But, by how much approx?

Correct dear sir! :thumbsup:

Next Q...

DID YOU KNOW THAT the R32 GT-R had a quite different drag coefficient to R31 Skylines of the day, which had Cd ratings of 0.31 & 0.33 for the 2 door & 4 door cars respectively. What was the R32 GT-R's Cd?

Hmm, well without knowing where those number come from - I reckon they are hopelessly wrong. There is no way an R31's cd figure is that low.

330lb.

Must be reading the same "Brooklands Books" road tests.

hehe... "NO"... but another resource in haynes.co.uk - yes (which quoted 200kg difference depending on the setup)

but perhaps you can come up with a "DID YOU KNOW THAT...?" yourself jiffo from the Brooklands source?

Hmmm...

DID YOU KNOW THAT there was a nickname given to the stove-oven lights of the R32 (even tho' they first appeared on the KPGC110)?

Hmm, well without knowing where those number come from - I reckon they are hopelessly wrong. There is no way an R31's cd figure is that low.

My thoughts too...

But how can one argue?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...