Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Friend of mine just got a tirerack order today and he's a bit disappointed that the tyres he's received are 3 years old.

Perhaps that's something that people can ask if they are ordering.

fark, 3 years old is a bit rough. out of interest what model tyre are they? and what size? I would not be happy with anything over 18months old.

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

They're a Kumho V710 I think. I don't know the exact size but they won't be overly big as they're for his Datto 1600.

Worst part was they told him the date on them was 2010 before he bought them. Haven't spoken to him in a few days but when I know how he got on after contacting I'll post up what happened.

The more tyres people buy from the US, the more expensive tyres in Australia will get. You need to support the Australian official importers of the tyres because the more they buy from Japan, the cheaper they can get them for which is why they are cheaper in the US. The more you buy from the US, the cheaper US prices will get in comparison to Australian prices. I really wish stoogebags would stop doing this.

Personally imported tyres would make up a fraction of a percentage of all tyre sales in Australia so I can't see how it makes up much of a difference. Call me a stoogebag if you want but I'm not paying twice the price for the privelidge of buying local.

The more tyres people buy from the US, the more expensive tyres in Australia will get. You need to support the Australian official importers of the tyres because the more they buy from Japan, the cheaper they can get them for which is why they are cheaper in the US. The more you buy from the US, the cheaper US prices will get in comparison to Australian prices. I really wish stoogebags would stop doing this.

why should i pay 100% mark up? seriously

i was quote $2500 supplied, fitted and balance for AD08

i pay $1200 landed and $50 for fitting and balance for the same tyres from tirerack

The more tyres people buy from the US, the more expensive tyres in Australia will get. You need to support the Australian official importers of the tyres because the more they buy from Japan, the cheaper they can get them for which is why they are cheaper in the US. The more you buy from the US, the cheaper US prices will get in comparison to Australian prices. I really wish stoogebags would stop doing this.

Maybe whichever stoogebag is profiteering in the aussie market could stop doing that?

Even in the same country its ridiculous, I can buy and ship tyres down from QLD and pay for fitting here and STILL have change from what they'd cost locally.

  • 1 year later...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/395003-circuit-semi-slicks/

A guy at Phillip Island ran the AO50s on the Saturday at PI and then the Hankooks on the Sunday. He seemed to think the Hankooks were quicker. He did go quicker on the Hankooks on the Sunday but I am not convinced as Troy was from Newcastle and only had limited running and was still getting his head around the track and his car problems over the weekend. Including popping his engine early on Sunday morning

http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results.cgi?13/11/2011.PHIL.Q1

1_25_AHRG___Troy Fraser____Nissan 200SX_1:44.2561*

The more tyres people buy from the US, the more expensive tyres in Australia will get. You need to support the Australian official importers of the tyres because the more they buy from Japan, the cheaper they can get them for which is why they are cheaper in the US. The more you buy from the US, the cheaper US prices will get in comparison to Australian prices. I really wish stoogebags would stop doing this.

People do support it but the fact they jack prices up to gain more of a profit is the problem. Why should I pay $650 per tyre here in Australia when I got the same tyres delivered to my door for $1400

If there is money to be saved on getting high quality tyres I will do it instead of what alot of ppl do and skimp on tyres and get the cheap ones

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...