Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice to have a fresh engine again. New motor makes the same power as the last motor with less boost and earlier. Will put 1,000kms on it and do some coolant and oil flushes and then throw the new turbo on. Hopefully bag another 30-40rwkws and pop 350 :) Should make for an interesting drive at PI next month

How did you freshen it up? Nice to see that a fresh motor makes a difference to the performance. I'm preparing my RB20DET build at the moment. Going to be using a TD06SL2-20G and a Sinco top mount manifold (similar to 6boost) and other supporting mods.

Crazy to see so much power out of a little 2 litre!

Well since I am not in a habit of leading people astray the new engine isnt actually 2L. Um and its not actually an RB20...i can't even bring myself to admit what it is :) Nothing like a self loathing car owner :):domokun:

At least the engine came out of an NA R32 so at least its not as filthy as something from an R33. So its an NA RB25 that has been rebuilt with Eagle rods, Arias pistons and 25 crank. When I throw the cam gears in after easter I will throw my Tomei Poncams in as the NA cams are rather small.

I am looking for some Garret cores so that I can start building the manifolds for the twin setup I want to run. If I am going to go twin low mount lameness I at least want to have some fun fabricating all the bits

Was it still an RB20 (2litre) when you did 306kw?

Yep...1000000% Std unopened RB20 engine that I think came out of an auto Cefiro when i chased back the engine number in FAST

In tank Nismo fuel pump, E85 with ID1000s. Plazmaman plenum with 6boost manifold and 8cm TD06-20G and 45mm Turbosmart gate with R34 GTR Cooler and Z32 AFM with HKS Hyper exhaust. Guaranteed to make at least what my engine did. It was a wrecker engine when I got it and it has since done 60,000kms of 250-310rwkws with a load of track work

If I had my time again I would have kept the std inlet plenum and the Greddy exhaust manifold. The thing had a measurably better mid range and torque. The plazmaman plenum really made it into more of a top end screamer

It would still be going if it wasnt for the heater hose the split under the inlet manifold in peak hour traffic. That engine is going to get stripped down and get slowly built back up with my spare RB26 crank and my RB24 gear for whatever R31 I end up finding

good stuff roy you can be in my crew now. besides i love telling people that my rb25 had far more in common to a rb20 than a 25det. they are a rb20 in evey way bar displacement

any reason you put a rb25det crank in yours?

I didn't put anything in it. I grabbed it as it was cheap for what it was and have no idea about it really. Was nice to that it tuned up well and looks and sounds healthy

I bought it years ago whilst I was in India as I wanted the head in case I ever put my RB26 bottom end in it. When i took the sump off and looked at it it seemed too good an engine to strip so just kept it and threw it in when the RB20 had the overheating problem

Pretty happy with how it turned out. Pretty happy with the power it makes...just to see how it holds up to being raped at the track

398854_10151838547609741_1680740710_n.jp

I hate myself :(

But, the cheapest way I could get the car back on the road ready for a track day was to use a spare engine that was laying around. I grabbed this engine cheap years ago as it was cheap and externally looks like an R32 RB20. Thinking was if I ever get defected then I would put it in with a 2.8L kit and run an XR6 GT35R bolted onto std manifold for legal thrills to clear defects and be stress free

I am going to strip down the lil 20 over the coming weeks and see if it was just a headgasket and if the head and block come back crack free going to slap it back together with a refresh and get some more exprience with building engines.

Then the abomination that sits between my strut towers at present can come out and be sold. Should be easier to sell now that I have had it running and it looks to be a good engine and potential buyer can hear, see and even drive it before removal

I can already tell you I dopnt like the character of the car. It has way more power down low that makes it spritely on the street...but feels flat. People can say it maky be quicker but doesnt have any character or top end pull that the 20 had:( LOL time for a bigger turbo to get some lag back :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
    • If you are Ecutek tuned then these TCU tunes are anywhere from $550 to $700 usd. If you are not ECUTEK tuned, then it gets costly!    
    • Sorry to hear your HFM BM57 was faulty,  did you contact HFM I would hope they would be at least grateful for the information if there was some sort of manufacturing fault, you would hope they would be sympathetic even if your item was 2 years old if it had never been fitted. May I ask where it leaked from ?
×
×
  • Create New...