Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I am wondering which is best and makes more since money wise, to upgrade my RB 20 or put a RB25 or 26 in.

My goal is 300 plus horse power, 350 if possible. I want to have a car that is quick and good mid range which can hit it if I have too. I do not want a laggy car.

Is it better to put a RB25 or 26 inside?

I live in Japan, so I will buy parts here, cheaper. My R32 is manual, so besides engine, wiring harness, computer, and transmission from a R 33 or GTR what else would I need?

Or should I build my RB 20?

Help please

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

220-250rwkw.

RB20 will do it safely enough, as will a RB25 or 26

Just comes down to how much you want to spend, of which you've not said.

Pretty basic though either way.

RB25 and put a GT3071 on it IMO, same as the billions of other people before you now.

RB25 and put a GT3071 on it IMO, same as the billions of other people before you now.

+1

I do however also have faith in a basic RB26 swap. The RB26 will land you more than what you are looking for on OEM parts. The RB25 will require a little more money thrown at it (ecu and turbo upgrades) to make that power.

You can expect 260rwkw~ from an RB26 with exhaust, boost and remap (the stock ECU is remapable). The same mods from an RB25 will see roughly 200rwkw (but you will need slightly more than just an exhaust and remap).

GL.

220-250rwkw.

RB20 will do it safely enough, as will a RB25 or 26

Just comes down to how much you want to spend, of which you've not said.

Pretty basic though either way.

RB25 and put a GT3071 on it IMO, same as the billions of other people before you now.

Well

I would put the engine and transmission in with help from people who have done engine installs .

I estimate that I can find a 26 engine for free(someone has one in storage but has abandoned it possibly) or get one for about 1-2000 dollars.

So my price range is about 3-4000 dollars to do this. Also Rb 25s are about 500 dollars used here. So thats even cheaper.

I am wondering if it makes since to put a bigger engine in instead of modding the RB20. All work for the install can be done by myself and help from people who know what they are doing.

What is this slump thing that I read about here with the RB 26 that needs to be modified to fit the R32? Is this only if I do not use the GTR transmission? I am looking to use the R32 GTR engine and transmission if I go the RB26 route.

What are some bad points about the 25?Help please

Hey mate,

For $500 you can't go past the RB25...

When you put an RB26 in you will have to modify the sump. This is due to the RB26 being a 4 wheel drive motor so you will have to look after the front diff as your GTSt doesn't have one...

Hope that helps.

if the 26 is free then i think you know the answer

Just if I do the 20 besides exhaust, intake, inter cooler, bigger fuel pump, injectors, head gaskets, ecu tune, what else would anyone recommend I do to put the 20 at 300hp or over?

the biggest difference between a 20 putting out 300hp and a 25 putting out similar power will be the low down power. the 25 will leave the 20 for dead in the lower rev range

I know the low end is not so good. How can I improve on the low end in the 20?

*note car will be off the road for years...

wut? my car was driving with the 3L for nearly two years, the reason it is off the road now has nothing to do with the fact it has a 3L. If you really must know, the whole RB30DET conversion was done in a weekend. Drove it in Friday arvo, drove it home in the wee hours of Monday morning. It's not fkn rocket doctory.

My point was, there's not a whole lot you can do to get more low down out of the RB20.

Edited by bubba
wut? my car was driving with the 3L for nearly two years, the reason it is off the road now has nothing to do with the fact it has a 3L.

My point was, there's not a whole lot you can do to get more bottom end out of the RB20.

N2O haha

I'm going to have a crack at some 50/50 E85 soon and see if we can gain some bottom end grunt :D

N2O haha

I'm going to have a crack at some 50/50 E85 soon and see if we can gain some bottom end grunt :blink:

bah at quoting before I edited :D

I'd love to run straight E85 but until it's readily available over here (read: not having to buy it in 200L drums) I cbf.

An rb20 will always be alittle doughy down low....its inherent in the design of the engine...small capacity and short stroke...there is not much at all you can do for it down low...just make sure it screams once it comes on boost...

And IMO...if 300-350rwhp is the goal...the rb20 will make it quite easily...and it'll be a heap of fun too...and if necessary...for that extra kick in the pants...run E85...the extra ignition timing you can wind in will make it a lot more responsive...

An rb20 will always be alittle doughy down low....its inherent in the design of the engine...small capacity and short stroke...there is not much at all you can do for it down low...just make sure it screams once it comes on boost...

And IMO...if 300-350rwhp is the goal...the rb20 will make it quite easily...and it'll be a heap of fun too...and if necessary...for that extra kick in the pants...run E85...the extra ignition timing you can wind in will make it a lot more responsive...

I do not want to be a weak geek on the street. I am not looking to become fasty man, but I dont want to be passed by VW or Non STI Subarus or The ugly Nissan Fugas and their so called Skylines that came out a few years ago, and mazadas and S-14's and S-15's.

I want to be able to hang with the Toyota Mark IIs and R-34 GTTs and others..

Edited by 335

if you want to "hang" with the R34's then forget about the rb20. they are a waste of time IMO. if you want more low end out of it without going broke then do what everyone else before you has done and get an rb25. for your power target the rb25 is more than adequate and very cost effective.

it is by far the most economical way to make more torque

but then im biased, i have an r32 with an rb25 and i love it! and i've always been of the opinion that building an rb20 is a waste of time. you can polish a turd all you like but its still a turd.

Edited by jonboy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...