Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just want to know a little more information on whats involved with this conversion. I'm guessing maybe a different tailshaft, but the part I'm really not sure about is the transfer case. I'm guessing BNR32 transfer case doesnt mate up to BNR34 box. Does the BNR34 transfer case work with the BNR32 Attessa system? Or do you need to change more stuff over?

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331785-bnr34-gearbox-conversion/
Share on other sites

also R34 Diff's

end of the day, its a pointless conversion really.

Why do you need the diffs? Keep for 4.111's.

It can not be that pointless is guys like "dazmo" believe it is good enough for his race car.

much better idea Ash had, Just buy a 1st-3rd OS kit, get your box built with it in it. and if you want to make your car have more low end punch just grab a set of 4.3 ratio diff gears..... sorted and much less hassel.

much better idea Ash had, Just buy a 1st-3rd OS kit, get your box built with it in it. and if you want to make your car have more low end punch just grab a set of 4.3 ratio diff gears..... sorted and much less hassel.

So rebuild gearbox, rebuild two diffs... or... replace gearbox and tailshafts with R34 Getrag?

I think the latter might be less hassle and maybe even cheaper.

Why do you need the diffs? Keep for 4.111's.

It can not be that pointless is guys like "dazmo" believe it is good enough for his race car.

Depends what you want but the R34 diffs complement the Getrag Ratio's which are nowhere near the same as the R32/R33 box.

If memory serves me correct 1st/2nd become near useless if keeping R32/R33 diff's.

But as i said, depends on what you want. The OP isn't clear at all about why he actually wants to do it/what he hopes to achieve.

much better idea Ash had, Just buy a 1st-3rd OS kit, get your box built with it in it. and if you want to make your car have more low end punch just grab a set of 4.3 ratio diff gears..... sorted and much less hassel.

The OS set actually slightly alters the ratio's as well which is nice :yes:

Depends what you want but the R34 diffs complement the Getrag Ratio's which are nowhere near the same as the R32/R33 box.

If memory serves me correct 1st/2nd become near useless if keeping R32/R33 diff's.

But as i said, depends on what you want. The OP isn't clear at all about why he actually wants to do it/what he hopes to achieve.

Would be good if someone like dazmo could comment or atomicbomber...

I am devasted, no more 4.375 diffs from Nissan anymore :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...