Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...

Hi Guys.....the translation has been a great help...cheers.

I have managed to get my phone paired with the Bluetooth in the car, but can seem to transfer my phone contacts! Can this be done?

Tnx...

  • 2 months later...

The short answer, garryg, is that it depends on your handset's ability to send contacts via Bluetooth.

If it's an iPhone, then the answer is a resounding "no". Apple suck for some of the choices they make and this is definitely one of those choices. In short, Apple don't support a transfer protocol. Apple have chosen to support a different Bluetooth protocol which only allows the phone book to be read but not copied from. It has been a painful year receiving calls in this vehicle and not being able to recognise all the numbers that come in. It's even worse when I need to dial out. It's neither feasible nor safe while driving. I hope Satan is shoving a few pineapples per day up Steve Jobs' arse for this.

Today, I upgraded my phone to a Samsung Note2 and exporting from this phone is a little cumbersome if you've got a whole bunch of accounts in it (i.e. Facebook, Google, Google+, etc). Nevertheless, it is definitely possible and works very well.

There is one quirk though. You must ensure your phone numbers are not prefixed with a "+61" (i.e. E164 international standard). The number must be entered as a local entry (so, 04xxxxxxxx or in the case of landlines, 02xxxxxxxx, etc). The reason for this is the handsfree kit interprets it as an international call and replaces the "+" with a "011" rather than just sending the "+" to the handset, rendering the number dialled a wrong one. Why the engineers chose to do this is beyond me but it is what it is. Nevertheless, I'm happy that I've actually got speed dials for a change, let alone an entire phone book.

So, here's the how-to on transferring contacts using an Android phone (Jellybean OS - not sure what the older OS's look like). If you have anything else, such as an old Nokia, you'll need to check your manual on how to export via Bluetooth on those. My old N85 can definitely do it as well though it has its own quirks when sending numbers in bulk.

Following the screenshots in the translated document:

1) Press the Settings button on your keypad

2) Navigate to Phone (Option 5 - first item in the second column)

3) Navigate to Directory (second item in the menu)

4) Select first option in this Directory submenu.

5) On the pop-up screen, select the left button which I'm guessing is the "OK/YES" button.

6) Another screen will pop-up with your V36's Bluetooth ID and a series of instructions. Leave this up and now pick up your phone.

7) At your phone's main contacts list, press the menu button and choose "Import/Export"

8) At the bottom of the menu (you may need to scroll to find it), select "Share namecard via"

9) Your contacts list will re-emerge with a series of tickboxes to the left. You can select all and then deselect the ones you don't want or just select the few you do want.

10) Once you have selected them, tap the "Done" button at the top right.

11) Another pop-up screen will appear asking the method to transfer with. Select "Bluetooth" and then tap "Just Once". This will ensure that Bluetooth will not be used as the default means of transferring contacts in future, in case you have another import/export requirement not involving Bluetooth. If you happen to tap the "Always" button, it's fine. You can reset this option in another menu anyway.

12) Then you should see a little transfer screen appear on your V36 display. It takes approximately 30 seconds to transfer about 300 numbers.

DONE! You've now transferred your numbers.

To create and edit speed dials:

1) Press the Settings button on your keypad

2) Navigate to Phone (Option 5 - first item in the second column)

3) Navigate to Speed Dials (first item in the menu)

4) Select the speed dial slot you wish to create/edit

5) Select the second item in the submenu (there should be about 6 options in that submenu)

6) Select the first item in the next submenu (there should be 3 options in that submenu)

7) Select the only item in the next submenu (all but 1 of the 11 options will be greyed out in that submenu)

8) A list of all your transferred numbers will appear, in phone number order. This is an unfortunate quirk but in the grand scheme of things, no big deal either.

9) Find your desired number and select it.

DONE! Repeat steps 4-9 for the remaining speed dial slots you wish to configure.

There is one warning I have for you though. You cannot update the phone directory with just one number in future. You must transfer the entire phone directory from your handset again otherwise you will only have the one number in your V36's phone book. The positive thing about this is that speed dials remain unaffected, even with the phone book completely erased.

I'm working purely off memory as I did this a little earlier today. I'm pretty sure I've got it down correctly but if not, let me know and I'll revise my post after I triple check with my vehicle again.

Edited by The Max

I should add another little discovery I made today. Only your first 15 speed dials can be scrolled through and selected while driving. From speed dial 16 onwards, it's greyed out when you're in motion. I'm guessing that's more of a bug than a feature, considering my DVD player allows videos to be viewable while I'm driving!

Therefore, save your most important/regular numbers to dial in the first 15 slots as the others will only be available when you're stopped at the lights.

You're a legend Max. I have been meaning to spend some time going through and figuring this out for a looong time now. Your instructions above will definitely save me some time.

One question.....I read somewhere (probably myg37.com) that you can only transfer about 50 or so contacts. Above you mention 300 contacts, have you confirmed that all 300+ work?

All 278 are listed in my directory. Not sure what the limit is but I certainly didn't reach it with my phone book.

The limit you're referring to is probably the speed dials, in which case we only have 40 slots available for that. So, choose your first 15 wisely and then choose your remaining 25 carefully.

  • 6 months later...

I have a 2010 GTP and (as it is a genuine facelift model) the translation doesn't even come close to matching what I see.

Does anyone have any info on the newer model?

As this is my first post, let me say thanks for such a great forum.

Welcome Toecutter.

So not even the Kanji characters themselves bear any resemblance? I'm hoping they've used similar Japanese wording even though the menu items order may not be the same. See if you can find some common characters which may help.

The Max...thanks.

Some appear the similar but this model has significantly more choices.

Some menu choices give you eight menu choices and then the next level down gives you 47!

A few more features methinks?

I know there are only three or four buttons that will work in Oz but I have found some of the NAV stuff does too. Just that the Latitude is reversed.

If I work anything out I'll be happy to post it here.

Well there are a lot of similarities in the menu's....just some in different spots and some extra's.

I have a basic draft of the SETTINGS button, and the MAINTENANCE choices seem to be the same.

The Music Box menu has been enlarged. I will post resiluts when completed.

(Now all I have to do is work out how to disabled that damn speed limiter!!!!!)

  • 2 weeks later...

Use an app called Camdictionary on android. It will translate japanese to english by aiming the camera at the v36's screen. I used it to translate error messages I was getting, oil filter and oil change.

I took a look at the app. The fact that it wants access to my phone and contacts seems unusual for something that's just meant to be using the camera, data (perhaps) and not much else. I'll stay away from it.

Strange, version 2.1.0 permissions are Net comms (google add service), storage, phone calls (read status) System (usb storage, prevent sleep) Hardware (vibration disable)

Exactly my point. Why does a camera-based app need access to phone call status? At any rate, I'll steer clear of it myself.

read status is usually for save state, initiates minimize and app pause prior to phone ring. Android 4.0 and below it can forward txt of your IMEI.

Anyway, there's a number of other apps that work similar, google have their own official which works alright.

Hey has anybody managed to translate what the little Japanese girl living in the dash sometimes says?

She has a lovely chat with me some days when I start the car, and i'd love to know WTF she is on about :lol:

  • 3 weeks later...

She says Ohayo (Good morning) before 12pm, Konichiwa (Good arvo) from 12pm to 5pm and kombawa after 5pm (Good evening) and what she says after these is simply "please have a safe drive", she is very polite and never forgets to greet me :D

Thanks AsM

But my girl seems to talk a lot more than just "have a safe drive".

Maybe it is like the old [dubbed] Japanese movies where the mouth moves for 30 seconds and the sound track says "No"???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Came here to say, put all the wiring from the new motor and gearbox in that you can, then throw the stock ECUs in the bin, and get an aftermarket ECU. Should be pretty easy if you can use a multimeter and read a wiring diagram to then use a PNP aftermarket ECU to suit the motors wiring loom, and make the minimal changes you will to get it to work in with the body loom (If any). This will mean you can very easily circumvent/bypass the Park/Neutral start disable switch, and get everything running really easy!
    • If the roof is dual skinned the whole way, IE, there's a "top" metal piece, and a "bottom" metal piece, to slow it down as much as you practically can, you should be able to get an attachment for a spray can/your spray gun, where it is a long, thin flexible hose, and when you're "spraying" it is spraying it in every direction possible. The I'd get that, and feed it through the roof as much and as far as you can. It's basically like fish oiling the car, but you're soaking it in rust converter. Then do the fix like Murray has described having cleaned up the existing metal as much as you humanly can. I'd also throw as much rust converter on that exposed metal before putting the fibreglass/metal filler over everything.   As for welding a replacement in. I've owned my own MIG welder for about 10 years. I've also worked in an industry doing MIG welding for a job for about 3 months dead straight, and we were doing 11.5 hour work days 5 days a week, plus a Saturday 6 hour day. (I then moved over to running the massive CNC plasma as I could understand the technology, and work with the main guy out there). I also f**k around with my welders a bit at home. So what I'm saying here is, I've probably got more hours on a MIG gun than you'll manage to get under your sleeve doing home sorts of jobs over the next 5 years. I also have an ACDC TIG that I got myself a year or two back. I've got a short amount of experience on the TIG only. My home MIG is also presently setup for doing thin sheet metal. Unless I didn't care about how that roof looked, and I just wanted a functional metal roof, and it being out of alignment, warped, and bowed, I would NOT attempt a roof replacement UNLESS I could do it as a whole panel like Murray described where the spot welds were.  Welding has this REALLY annoying thing, where if you want something to be perfectly square, unless you can clamp that thing to damn perfection (Welding fixture table), it is NOT going to be square, so you start to learn, the type of metal you're working with, how thick it is etc, and weld in VERY specific ways, and by knowing how YOU are as a welder, so that as the welds cool, the metal work pulls itself into place. If you want to see some cool tricky shit done, Bennets Customs is an Aussie guy, and he mentions a guy a lot call "Kyle", who is from "Make It Kustom". Watch some of their welding videos, especially on sheet metal. You can use the welder to shrink the steel in, and you can also use the welder to stretch the panel out. When you have the skill level that I have, you can shrink the metal in and out... But never on purpose like those two guys do. You just manage to f**k it all up. Then I smack it around with a hammer till it sits lower than I will want it too, then I shove filler on top and then pray to deitys that I can sand it into some form of sane shape that doesn't look like a dog has taken a shit, after eating a tonne of pumice stone... I'm all for DIY, and for learning, and please, feel free to give it a go, but be aware, you need to live with the consequences of how time consuming it is to do, AND that it's going to look no where near as good as what you can make it look with just some filler now. Oh AND, even once you replace it, it's like to still rust away again eventually, because you'll have missed putting primer and paint on some part of the newly welded in sheet metal, or against part of the existing metal you couldn't get to...   Oh, and to weld all that in, you will need to pull the window out, and strip at least the roof and A Pillars of interior trim and wiring. You'll then need things like the big fire proof/weld spatter proof mats to lay down, OR you'll end up needing to strip the ENTIRE interior to avoid sending it all up in a ball of flames. If you want to see how annoying sheet metal is to weld, head to bunnings, buy there 600x600 1.6mm mild steel (Not GAL!) sheet, and cut a few pieces, and try and weld them together. Then understand, 1.6mm sheet is nearly 50 to 100% THICKER than the cars sheet metal.   The photos I posted before, I'm replacing with 1.2mm thick mild sheet, and it's very easy to blow through both the original steel (Especially if I hit an area that should have probably been cut out a bit more) or straight through the new sheet metal. And I'm doing the floor, which can be hidden easily, and doesn't matter how pretty I make it, as long as it's damn strong! I'm also doing it in a 4WD, that has seen many off road trails, and doesn't need to look that pretty ever
    • This sounds like a perfect excuse to install a Haltech R3.
    • I do believe from context he is talking about a S0/S1 R33 RB25 with associated ECU and Wiring for that, and a manual gearbox into a R34 N/A Auto. I don't have the knowledge of all the pinouts and such but my gut feeling from doing my own conversion is to use as much of the R33 stuff that you can. The "car" wiring is quite seperate from the "Engine" wiring when all things are considered. The only things to truly consider 99% of the time is the cluster, reverse lights and potentially disabling the 'not in P/N' immobilizer circuit.
    • A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
×
×
  • Create New...