Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah so haven't been here in a while.

Also haven't driven the GTR for about 3 months. Too many d!ckheads with them, too much attention and stress. Does about 1000kms a year.

Should I sell it...? and if so, how to put a value on it??

hi to all who I haven't seen in a while too :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332419-been-a-while-should-i-sell-the-gtr/
Share on other sites

Marcus!!! How you been? long time no see.

Welcome to the club, although I've done around 600kms in 2 years.... :worship:

You have one of the cleanest, well modded 32 GT-R's around, and it's an Aussie delivered one too!!!

Worth good dollars that's for sure....

You'd have to sell it through Shannons or similar type of Prestige Auction house Marcus.

You won't get a good price otherwise. I think one went for around 40-45k recently that way (ADM 32R)

Oh, and come out and say hi once in a while you rude bastard :)

sorry ash, jack, dan, al et al... :woot:

I'll visit more often!

I still love driving it but it's less and less frequent. Also there is a x-fer case noise that needs to be looked at... so maintenance/insurance/rego is a stack and it doesn't much get used.

Thinking of taking it out on w/end for a blast... cousin just got a 3.8 GT3 so want to see how the old girl goes up against it

Keep it mate. Things ebb and flow, and when things slow down having that car to enjoy or go for drives in would be pretty awesome. Its a low key thing that would pass 99% of inspections as the thing is pretty stock. You seem to be doing plenty of travel with work

you really get hassled and stress about driving it?

I drive mine nearly every day and nobody even bats an eyelid... I pretty much get ignored and I like it that way... IMO getting rid of the personalised plates helped as well

that said I don't drive Fri Sat night and try to avoid the 'hotspots'

I just spent a packet traveling so don't have the coin to track it at the moment but I still enjoy driving it... even at the speed limit;)

I say keep it... if yours is the one I'm thinking about you put a heap of time and effort into getting it right... unless your desperate for the cash tuck it away until you get motivated again... my 2c

I'm with NickR33 on this one.

Yeah so haven't been here in a while.

Also haven't driven the GTR for about 3 months. Too many d!ckheads with them, too much attention and stress. Does about 1000kms a year.

Should I sell it...? and if so, how to put a value on it??

hi to all who I haven't seen in a while too ;)

I hope you are not letting these little things annoy you to the point of selling your car?

I drive mine everyday to and from work.. sees about 70+ k's a day, with personalized plates and like Nick says people don't really care.. been pulled over once by Graeme on the forums here but it was pretty much for a chat :thanks:

keep it mate. if you still enjoy driving it, and can afford to keep it then just let it gather dust.

as for the limited kms i guess it all depends on where u live and the cops in your area.

i live in knox which most know is a bad area if you have an import but i do 400-500kms a week without any issues.. touch wood :)

Being an ADM GTR, I'd definitely sit on it, because the values are only going to go up and you'll be kicking yourself if you sold it too soon.

Are the price of a 32 gtr gona go up?

why..

Its really good to hear this, making me want to keep my car even more!! hahaa sik.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...