Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol bad offset for a skyline. To be completly honest that offset is probably more suited to say a pulsar. You will want spacers. Even if the wheels fit they will not be the best looking fitment. Yer about +38 is factory i think. I run 30 mm spacers behind my 9.5 +38 driftecs currently

5x114.3 correct spacing!

ah thats okay then.

Have a look at the offset calculator on http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg4.html

+53 and +38 (assuming same tyre size)

The edge of the new tyre will be 14mm closer to the inside of the wheel well and suspension components, and 14mm further in from the edge of the bodywork.

So im assuming you would need 14mm spacer to bring it out to stock offset. +30 will give you a flush stance on r32's (and possible cause scrubbing depending on suspension setup). So I would assume you would need a 27mm spacer?

Someone verify the above.

edit; fyi. wheel spacers are illegal and can cause more stress on the thread if they are not bolt-on type. You may also have wheel balancing issues if they arent hub-centric spacers.

this cant be serious my mongoose has better dimensions..

dude try whatever you can to get out of the deal worst possible choice EVER

dont forget spacers are illegal incase your worried about that side of things

Rekin, don't think you've got it entirely right mate. In your calculations you haven't factored in the width of rims. 16x6.5 +40 are your stock GTS-t wheel specs. 16x8 +53 will stick out 6mm more than your stock wheel specs, however the inside of the rim will sit 32mm closer and I'm guessing this will then be hitting your suspension.

Try this offset calculator instead: http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

I think more to the point, where and why did you find a rim that has +53 offset?

In my opinion you'd be better off looking at something like 17x8 +25 and 17x9+30.

Edited by -Jimmy-

they are ssr mesh rims, very old school. picked them up at a great price so just trying to make them work. i wil of course be using bolt on spacers, and the car will be certified (you can get away with more in nz anyway). not sure where the actual rim came from where they'd be usinga 53 offset, never seen that sort of number before tbh!

So just wondering what spacer thickness i need to clear the brakes on the front without sticking out of the guards. from what i;ve read in here, a 25mm spacer should be appropriate?

any other opinions?

cheers for all your help everyone.

calculator using a 25mm spacer says that i lose 2mm of clearance with the strut, and the wheel will extend out towards teh guard edge by 36mm

might fit under the guard, barely, might need to do a little flaring or rolling.

does everyone agree?????? i know the 53 was a bad offset to choose, but i love the wheel and it was a very very sharp price.

Rekin, don't think you've got it entirely right mate. In your calculations you haven't factored in the width of rims. 16x6.5 +40 are your stock GTS-t wheel specs. 16x8 +53 will stick out 6mm more than your stock wheel specs, however the inside of the rim will sit 32mm closer and I'm guessing this will then be hitting your suspension.

Try this offset calculator instead: http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

I think more to the point, where and why did you find a rim that has +53 offset?

In my opinion you'd be better off looking at something like 17x8 +25 and 17x9+30.

yeah you're right, my mistake! Forgot to factor in the width! Cheers for clearing that up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...