Jump to content
SAU Community

Bnr32 Track Build

Kaido_RR
 Share

Recommended Posts

JimmyRickard Mentor

JimmyRickard

Posted
Posted
I would go for a digital dash like a Race Technology one and run it off the ECU sensors

Is this the dash you are talking about? I'm using a Vipec, can it plug in directly to that?

  • Replies 467
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

also install my nismo brake master stopper yesterday and dam it makes a huge different to my pedal makes me think my brake masters might need replacing. pedal is very firm now and as soon as i touch the pedal the brakes work unlike before were there was no initial bite

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

few updates bought some more parts....

ARC Radiator (had no plans to upgrade but this was so ridiculously cheap couldn't past it up)

Std GTR lip

Blitz EBC SBC-3

Nismo rear bushes for shock mounts

ohh and my hks front pipe arrived today 2x70mm -> 80mm; fits the tomei dumps very nicely

jg3dci2000img600x402128.jpg

impacy2thimg600x4361284.jpg

grabnr32img600x33712818.jpg

bri73y Proficient

bri73y

Posted
Posted
The factory tank does a very good job, is mounted well for weight distribution, and has enough capacity for quite a few laps, even on E85....... Hi Octane 32 GTR still runs the factory tank.

Hi Ben,

Do you know what spring rates the R32 runs ?? There's been some discussion on here re spring rates, I'm pretty sure Mark used to run fairly stiff rear springs to stop the front wheels from lifting ?? Probably diff. setup now with Russ driving though.... :-)

cheers,

JB

Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well, it had 450/350 (Yes, softer than I run in my Targa 32 GTS!) in it until last weekend when we doubled the rates and had Murray stiffen the shocks to match...... it was terrible around Lakeside, but it also lacked any form of undertray and was porpoising in the front. First time the car's ever understeered. (Same Whiteline bars on soft set, messed about during the day but made no real advances)

With the old springs in it, as you may know it would actually lift the inside front exiting corners, but was a dream handler..... very forgiving and lots of traction. Still seems to be the preffered setup, but time and some sorting may change that.

Edited by Marlin
djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
Would just like to confirm some details regarding tyres and rims.

The best size for track rims would be 17x9.5 +15 ish? correct

and for semi-slick best size selection im like 255/40/17? (do i have to run same size front and back?)

A 255/40/17 will foul the rear guards in an RE55 tyre on a +22 offset. Mine did anyway. So it will get ugly in a +15.

The front is a bit different. With the amount of neg camber you need to run you will probably get away with a wider offset than a +22.

Bridgestone recommend a 9" rim for a 255 bag tyre - you don't have to use drift tyre/rim sizing combinations....

Check also that a 17" rim will clear your brake rotor/calliper. 17" usually means 3345 rotor at maximum unless you are carefull with calliper & rim selection.

bri73y Proficient

bri73y

Posted
Posted
Well, it had 450/350 (Yes, softer than I run in my Targa 32 GTS!) in it until last weekend when we doubled the rates and had Murray stiffen the shocks to match...... it was terrible around Lakeside, but it also lacked any form of undertray and was porpoising in the front. First time the car's ever understeered. (Same Whiteline bars on soft set, messed about during the day but made no real advances)

With the old springs in it, as you may know it would actually lift the inside front exiting corners, but was a dream handler..... very forgiving and lots of traction. Still seems to be the preffered setup, but time and some sorting may change that.

Wow, doubling is a big call! it also blows out the difference in front/rear by another 100lbs hence the understeer I'd reckon..

450/350 is softer than I recalled - thanks Benny.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted
The factory tank does a very good job, is mounted well for weight distribution, and has enough capacity for quite a few laps, even on E85....... Hi Octane 32 GTR still runs the factory tank.

Slightly off topic, but, Marlin... do you know if either of the HiOctaneRacing GTR's use Tomei intake and exhaust valves (+1.0mm) as well as most of Tomei catalogue?

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
×
×
  • Create New...