Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 467
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

J - rad i started it about 2 weeks ago but didnt work on it every day.

Atm i have the new turbo + all the lines hook up just waiting on replace hose then i can finish putting everything bak together.

Btw do u really need to use tge stock heat shields? With my tomiedumps the 34 o2 senors hit :(

I've got a Greddy dump/front pipe extension for when I do mine, was going to wrap them in heat wrap all the way to the cat. Hopefully that helps.

the plan was to ceramic coat my gear but never got around to it.

Well turbo are finally all up and connect, ARC radiator is in, HKS intercooler piping is done intake side, hks front pipe on.

Now all that is left to bolt on all the greddy piping turbo side :D

The hks piping was a bitch to put in, needed to remove all the bov piping to be able to connect it up all right

63475_481123908575_691388575_6087383_5487935_n.jpg

wonder if there is much of a weight diffrence

i just run the just china ones and they seemed quite lite

The Greddy Kit for the turbo side was alot lighter than the hks cooler piping, that seems to be alittle thicker.

Well everything is all done and hook up, car is running and feel great even without a tune on stock ecu feels less lagger, now the wait till i can get it tune, workshop reopen on monday then will need to wait and see when i can get the car in.

Only issue i have is with one of the greddy filter it hits the bonnet, however i think once i install my hks afmless pipe i will be able to move it down alittle more (atm the afm plug is in the way)

The Greddy Kit for the turbo side was alot lighter than the hks cooler piping, that seems to be alittle thicker.

Well everything is all done and hook up, car is running and feel great even without a tune on stock ecu feels less lagger, now the wait till i can get it tune, workshop reopen on monday then will need to wait and see when i can get the car in.

Only issue i have is with one of the greddy filter it hits the bonnet, however i think once i install my hks afmless pipe i will be able to move it down alittle more (atm the afm plug is in the way)

Did it end up having standard ceramics on it? How much power did it make before the turbo swap?

Good to see your liking the GT-SS so far. I've got the 2860-9 by Garrett, which actuators did you end up using?

Did it end up having standard ceramics on it? How much power did it make before the turbo swap?

Good to see your liking the GT-SS so far. I've got the 2860-9 by Garrett, which actuators did you end up using?

I did not have it tune with the n1 turbo was just running std ecu, However i have a time from the local track which i will be able to compare it to.

I bought the genuine hks adjustable actuators, and too my luck i adjusted them to 1bar which is what i wanted lol

They the turbos you got of me Jarrad??

you put them on yet?

Nah I bought your Greddy front pipes. Cleaned them up and heat wrapped em, they look great. I bought Garrett -9s, but now I regrett it because I should of just bought the HKS GT-SS kit because it comes with all the gaskets/studs you need, instead of buying them from Nissan for $500+. Ahwell you live and you learn. I'm about to embark on putting it all back together this weekend haha

163938_474817600035_523485035_5900466_3683333_n.jpg

Sorry Kaido, I'm turning this into a joint build thread haha

Nah I bought your Greddy front pipes. Cleaned them up and heat wrapped em, they look great. I bought Garrett -9s, but now I regrett it because I should of just bought the HKS GT-SS kit because it comes with all the gaskets/studs you need, instead of buying them from Nissan for $500+. Ahwell you live and you learn. I'm about to embark on putting it all back together this weekend haha

163938_474817600035_523485035_5900466_3683333_n.jpg

Sorry Kaido, I'm turning this into a joint build thread haha

nice! good luck with putting it all back together!

those dump pipes are very nice, was originally going to buy them because i couldn't find the original tomie design dump pipes, but then a set of brand new ones came up that i couldnt past up. -9 are the same as gt-ss?

Update: Car was tune :)

Very happy with the results car made 370rwhp @ 18psi. didn't try to push anymore boost as my injectors (nismo 600cc) are around 90% duty cycle. so not sure if the injectors are alittle old and need to be flow test and clean as they were used in my old gts-t track car (with gtr plenum setup)

Power delivery is much better compare to the N1, lag is reduce and car pulls very hard, overall very happy with the result as i didn't want to push the engine too much as i want it to last.

Few issue however, the H/C Supplied with my pfc does not work seems to be the wrong type (just freezes on start-up) so will have to look at getting the correct model. I used the o2 supplied with my gt-ss which were from an r34 however due to them being a different type they didn't work, so they are turn off atm on the tune. Also the tuner would like the car back when the weather has cooled down so he can just double check the cold start setting etc.

So now its just back to the track and see how much improvement the upgrade will make on my time, the aim is to move into the low 57 (was currently on mid 58)

Next on the less will be cam gears would will hope off doing them until i do the timing belt and do it all in my hit. Also need to connect the sensors for my defi gauges, unsure if i will go oil cooler or just buy a sandwich plate atm, i know oil cooler is a must for track days however i want something with ducting that will give good cooling

Thats a pretty decent result mate! Did you end up putting anything around the manifolds and dumps? If not does the tuner see a problem? my heat wrap is getting in the way of doing a few bolts so I think I might have to remove it on the manifolds

Thats a pretty decent result mate! Did you end up putting anything around the manifolds and dumps? If not does the tuner see a problem? my heat wrap is getting in the way of doing a few bolts so I think I might have to remove it on the manifolds

decent ,well thought thru build for track duties. agreed, good result bro

Edited by nismokid
  • 2 weeks later...

thanks :)

little updates just getting the car ready for another track day this week. blew the top radiator hose last week (dirty old one just split), so went and got myself new hose from nissan and borrow a mate water temp fitting so i could finally install my defi water temp sensor.

Looking forward to see how it performs at the track with the extra power will post updates after track day

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...