Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gtst = 3 grand for insurance, service atleast every 5,000 km's

gts = 1500 maybe for insurance and service every 10,000 )although i do mine every 5)

my gts on long trips gets 500+ km's per tank (about 520) a GTST would get no where near as much, also when driving it around own etc the GTST will guzzle the fuel :)

  • 4 months later...

i have a 1993 r32 gts with a rb20det conversion. i bought it this way so i dunno whats been done. power seems sweet up until 5000rpm, where it seems to hit some flat spots in power from there onwards. Could this be possibly due to the fact that the ecu is still from the non-turbo engine, or maybe coz he hasnt upgraded the fuel pump? mods on it are fmic, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, brass button clutch. there is no bov, and currently is running 11psi. any ideas?

cheers

  • Like 1

This thread is kinda old, but i'll post up anyway. Incase anyone wants to know in the future?

Blew up my rb20det (big end bearing) and have just dropped an rb20de motor in.

High mount manifold

rb25 series 2 turbo

External wastegate

safc 2

sard fuel pressure regulator

walbro fuel pump

front mount

3" exaust turbo back

Boost controller

It goes onto the dyno on thursday (sunday at the moment), and i ain't going to be shy about the amount of boost it runs. I want as much power as the standard rb20det injectors can handle... (hopfully around 300hp atw)

Not sure how long the motor will last, but, gotta find out 1 way or another as noone seems to post up any results :(

Regards,

Chris.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey all!

I just bought a auto 96 R33 GTS 4 today.....

N yeh i wanna turbo it...:) since my ride is 4wd is it possible to do a direct Rb25DET engine swap? or will i have to turbo the na engine?

NEED HELP GUYS! NA skylines are slow:(

u ask me why i bought this car coz it was cheap n look sexc:)

regards shorty

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

hey i jus picked up a r33 gts25 off the forums , possible looking to turbo it...

i also have a s15 fronted 180sx, and its running a rb25det...

so i was gonna rip the turbo setup off it, t70, 38mm ext gate, hi rise manifold... take the standard injectors out of th det and the ecu out of it.. does this sound like it would run ok if i put it on??

i just stripped down a rb25de outa a r33 and it does have all the oil and water fittings on the side of the block. there just blanked off with bolts. so you can turbo then. youll just need everything off a rb25det turbo

Hi all have a R33 GTS RB25DE and want to turbo it but i live in the uk and all the people over here say it can't be done with out change the pistons and lowering compression , after reading this it can be done , if any one has any info please send me a message many thanks Shawn :P

Edited by shawny

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...