Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, just last week I came up to an oportunity and I couldn't resist

So I bought a 1998 r33 gtr :)

Mods

Catback exhaust 3.5inch( need custom dumps for new turbo)

Hks pods

Power fc not installed

I got it pretty cheap so I didn't check it much as long as the bodys straight witch it is because looking to rebuild in the near future,

As being a rb25 boy for 4 years not sure how much the rb26 can take and what would be a good setup.

Any way I took off the front bar , front mount etc to find out heaps and heaps of blow by and stops just after the bovs . So turbo oil seals are gone skies.

So I've got around 5-6 k to spend and buy some goodies :)

Already have power fc with hand controller

I want to keep the twin setup and don't want anything monstrous that will kill my motor or anything.

Hopefully I can reach round the 300kw mark :)

What would the best set up be for my budget?

Some one point me in the right direction !!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/334414-just-bought-a-gtr/
Share on other sites

Lots of oil around doesnt mean much TBH. Could simply just be normal blowby, car is 10years old etc, so buildup wouldnt surprise me.

Suspension, full oil changes (diff, transfer case, gearbox etc) service, brakes, PowerFC tune etc IMO.

All belts and the like is where you should spend the money IMO.

Otherwise...

Turbos will be 2500-3000

AFM - 650

Injectors - 800

Labour - 1000

clutch - 1500

So already blown your budget and you still have a car:

1. doesnt handle as well

2. isn't fully reliable by any means of the word.

All of a sudden you've spend near 10k when stuff starts letting go.

Get it all in good condition first, then chase the power.

yeah bro, defiantely start with a nice clean up of the shit first and a catch can. get the pfc in and c where u are from there.

i dont think 300 kw is a good target really in terms of the money u would be spending id be going more for the 380ish mark if u only wanted 300 u should have kept what eva rb25 powered car u had before

As everyone said, if you're not looking at spending huge amount of money, stick with 300awkw as a target. Even that will cost.

The next GTR I get will definitely be one thats got work done or one that is similiar to the N1 (maybe a NUR? hahaha). Cost breakdown as per below (all brand new parts);

1) Catback Exhaust = $1400

2) Dump Pipes = $500 (probably dont have to change if you've got a 34GTR but normally 32/33 will change them when doing turbos)

3) Turbo = $3000

4) ECU = $1400

5) Oil Cooler = $500

6) Clutch = $2500 (I would only like a Nismo Super Coppermix Twin personally but could be way cheaper if you go exedy or npc)

7) Boost Controller = $600

8) Tuning + Installation of ECU/Boost Controller = $1000

9) Metal Hi-Flow Cat = $350

10) Adjustable Coilovers = $1500

11) Labour = $2000

Thats almost $15,000 worth of mods and I would consider these to be basic essential GTR mods for you to enjoy the car's potential. By this time, your car would be very realiable at anywhere between 250awkw-300awkw (depending on your tune etc). If you want dead set 300awkw or slightly above, you'll need fuel system upgrade too and below are some extra cost.

12) Injectors = $1000

13) Fuel Pump = $350

14) Assuming you do not have AFM or else another, AFM = 700

Bare in mind, these will not be the end if you bought a dead stock GTR because you will want to change the rims, brake pads, rotors etc at some stage and the cost just keeps going up. Thats assuming the engine is still running good.

Upgrading the oil pump would be preferred but its a BIG job so not a lot of people would do it. Also if you're doing major service, maybe chuck in the N1 water pump because they've got lesser blades.

Just got it devices with royal pulple 10w-40 k and n oil filter new fuel filter cleaned out all the oily shut in the intake , took the intake manifold off cleaned everything :) I got a cusco catch can not sure how to hook it up my mechanic said don't use that one but I don't see why not? Just the silver one with the blue fitings but hasn't got a breather in it.. Do I need one ?

And another thing the bovs seem fine but it's doesing like a mutherf**ka I Gota look turbo side and see if the recirculating pipe are blocked...

Cheers for all the adivce guys I'll let you know what happins after the tune :P

Keep the discussion going!

i dunno much about the gtrs mate but with the catch can

you want to run the line that goes back to the intake into one side of your catch can then run the other to the intake

so the blow by goes through the catch can on the way to the intake

you can put some steel wool in there too to catch the vapour too (make sure no small bits are gonna come off tho

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...