Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Transmission Fluid Change...

matty_M35

By matty_M35,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

matty_M35 Collaborator

matty_M35

Posted
Posted

I bought the matic-J oil the other day was gonna do it myself today.. from the info i have found dropping the oil out the drain plug will only remove half then i can just top back up the exact amount i removed.

Or should i take it to a mech and get them to flush and fill with full amount??

im only asking coz i found mixed results, some saying not good to flush the system(unwanted pressure..etc) and others saying not good to just drain as your not removing all the old stuff..

I just want to know what others have done.

either way im happy to do myself, or take to mech as i have bought the expensive stuff.... matic-J is like the cost of liquid gold. :ermm::)

thanks

sorry to start new thread.. but the M35 info one is getting massive and without categories gets hard to find stuff..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/334650-m35-transmission-fluid-change/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

This is for S1 but pretty sure M35 is the same (i.e. the sump will hold a lot less than half). You could do it without dropping the sump. This way you are just using the stock auto's pump (it has been suggested that the pwer flushing system of the auto shops can damage seals but I can't verify that):

Get yourself an auto sump gasket kit and a 20L drum of (ideally) quality synthetic atf. You need 12 to 14L for the auto and you can use the rest for your attessa and power steering. Drain the sump and drop it (easier said then done - you will have to support the box and remove the rear mounting). You will only get betweeen 1 and 2 litres this way. Check that the new internal filter is exactly the same (otherwise the sump won't go back on) and if not either modify the new one to suit or clean the old one and put it back. Put 2L of fresh oil down the dip stick tube.

Then pull a hose off the trans oil cooler and run the engine until you have pumped out 2L into a container. Pour 2L of new oil down the dipstick tube and repeat until you get clean oil coming out. This will take 12 to 14L in total.

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted
I bought the matic-J oil the other day was gonna do it myself today.. from the info i have found dropping the oil out the drain plug will only remove half then i can just top back up the exact amount i removed.

Or should i take it to a mech and get them to flush and fill with full amount??

im only asking coz i found mixed results, some saying not good to flush the system(unwanted pressure..etc) and others saying not good to just drain as your not removing all the old stuff..

I just want to know what others have done.

You should be able to get quite a lot by draining (about 4L or so), unfortunately ours takes over 8L, so you could do it again the following weekend which is effectively just diluting the old oil with fresh stuff or alternatively take it to Nissan for a transmission flush and take the price of the oil off the bill (you will lose $$ though).

hmmm.... while I think about it, would something like the Liquivac work for removing all the transmission oil?

matic-J is like the cost of liquid gold. :D:(

Maybe look at getting some Matic-S from the US? We have yet to receive it in Australia, but it is the 100% synthetic replacement to Matic-J.

sorry to start new thread.. but the M35 info one is getting massive and without categories gets hard to find stuff..

Agreed.....

PetroDola Proficient

PetroDola

Posted
Posted

couldnt agree more with another forum for m35 stuff.

I keep confusing peoples comments about S1's and S2's until i notice either C34 in their list of cars or their avatar of a c34.. and im like meh doesnt apply to my s1!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • QB6SAGR
      Battle of the broken skylines

      By QB6SAGR · Posted

      Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • cosline
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By cosline · Posted

      Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Rezz
      Spotted on the street....

      By Rezz · Posted

      Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...