Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hey guys so today was a busy day.

I changed the coils over with a mates ones that were working sweet and the problem was still there.

I changed the AFM to another pink sticker one, problem still there.

I decided to take a look at the ECU and to my suprise it has an odd one for it, and remembered that when i brought the engine it was out of an auto car.. and the ECU they gave us came with that engine.. so im guessing the ECU is an auto one.

The numbers are: MEC-R730 B1 6521, Ive done a search but cant find anything about this ecu.

I got a proper r33 rb25det ecu and checked the numbers on it and they are for this car but now it wont idle! its turns over and then dies straight away, if i give it some gas it i can hold the revs myself then if i slowly take my foot of the accel it will sit there idling but will be searching then pretty much die.

I unplugged the AFM and it was the same.. so while it was seaching for idle i got the mrs to plug the AFM back in and it died straight away. Would this mean its the AFM?

ok so today i checked for error codes on the manual rb25det ecu, i got code 12, which is AFM so i replaced it with another one and now it will idle fine and run, but again it is cutting out on boost!! im running out of ideas here!

Can anyone else think of anything to try?

Edited by prawln

I had the same problem when I finished my conversion. It cut out exactly like in your posted videos. I changed the spark plugs, coils, afm and couldn't find anything wrong. So I lowered the boost and took it to a tuner. Got a nistune and havn't had any problems.

ok so have some good news.. got the car fixed and sorted.

The auto ecu was causing the car to not get above 5-5.5k rpm so replaced with a manual ecu and that fixed that problem.

i was still having the cutting out on boost issues though so today i took the pod filter off and put my hand over the AFM quickly to see if i could hear any leaks in the intercooler piping.. and to my surprise bingo herd a hissing sound. I located where the noise was coming from and found that the T bolt clamp was on tere tight but when we put the joiner on the intercooler pipe was in far enough and the T bolt clamp wasnt actully over the piping so was causing it to leak! When looking at it it looked like it was on perfect but apprently not

Took for a run on 5psi actuator and ran mint!! so put the 10psi actuator and also runs mint!!! so problem solved!

Just need to bring the timing back to 15 degrees from 20 degrees as its idleing rough!

Big thanks for everyones help and sorry for this being such a silly minor stupid thing!

  • 5 years later...

Ive got the same f**ken problem its had me stumped for months changed heaps of parts and everything an stull cant get it but i dont think i have an air leak i can easly stall the motor by putting my hand over the afm. has anyone got an answer for this cutting out on boost problem? Its driving me nuts

This post should be in the hall of fame for real!

Ive got the same f**ken problem its had me stumped for months changed heaps of parts and everything an stull cant get it but i dont think i have an air leak i can easly stall the motor by putting my hand over the afm. has anyone got an answer for this cutting out on boost problem? Its driving me nuts

This post should be in the hall of fame for real!

Stalling the motor by blocking the afm is not an indication of anything. Good or bad.

Alright this is the common problem with basic mods really my only solution is bigger afm and a play around with an ecu. got my hands on a scanner

it's not 1996, buy yourself a proper ECU

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
×
×
  • Create New...