Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hey guys so today was a busy day.

I changed the coils over with a mates ones that were working sweet and the problem was still there.

I changed the AFM to another pink sticker one, problem still there.

I decided to take a look at the ECU and to my suprise it has an odd one for it, and remembered that when i brought the engine it was out of an auto car.. and the ECU they gave us came with that engine.. so im guessing the ECU is an auto one.

The numbers are: MEC-R730 B1 6521, Ive done a search but cant find anything about this ecu.

I got a proper r33 rb25det ecu and checked the numbers on it and they are for this car but now it wont idle! its turns over and then dies straight away, if i give it some gas it i can hold the revs myself then if i slowly take my foot of the accel it will sit there idling but will be searching then pretty much die.

I unplugged the AFM and it was the same.. so while it was seaching for idle i got the mrs to plug the AFM back in and it died straight away. Would this mean its the AFM?

ok so today i checked for error codes on the manual rb25det ecu, i got code 12, which is AFM so i replaced it with another one and now it will idle fine and run, but again it is cutting out on boost!! im running out of ideas here!

Can anyone else think of anything to try?

Edited by prawln

I had the same problem when I finished my conversion. It cut out exactly like in your posted videos. I changed the spark plugs, coils, afm and couldn't find anything wrong. So I lowered the boost and took it to a tuner. Got a nistune and havn't had any problems.

ok so have some good news.. got the car fixed and sorted.

The auto ecu was causing the car to not get above 5-5.5k rpm so replaced with a manual ecu and that fixed that problem.

i was still having the cutting out on boost issues though so today i took the pod filter off and put my hand over the AFM quickly to see if i could hear any leaks in the intercooler piping.. and to my surprise bingo herd a hissing sound. I located where the noise was coming from and found that the T bolt clamp was on tere tight but when we put the joiner on the intercooler pipe was in far enough and the T bolt clamp wasnt actully over the piping so was causing it to leak! When looking at it it looked like it was on perfect but apprently not

Took for a run on 5psi actuator and ran mint!! so put the 10psi actuator and also runs mint!!! so problem solved!

Just need to bring the timing back to 15 degrees from 20 degrees as its idleing rough!

Big thanks for everyones help and sorry for this being such a silly minor stupid thing!

  • 5 years later...

Ive got the same f**ken problem its had me stumped for months changed heaps of parts and everything an stull cant get it but i dont think i have an air leak i can easly stall the motor by putting my hand over the afm. has anyone got an answer for this cutting out on boost problem? Its driving me nuts

This post should be in the hall of fame for real!

Ive got the same f**ken problem its had me stumped for months changed heaps of parts and everything an stull cant get it but i dont think i have an air leak i can easly stall the motor by putting my hand over the afm. has anyone got an answer for this cutting out on boost problem? Its driving me nuts

This post should be in the hall of fame for real!

Stalling the motor by blocking the afm is not an indication of anything. Good or bad.

Alright this is the common problem with basic mods really my only solution is bigger afm and a play around with an ecu. got my hands on a scanner

it's not 1996, buy yourself a proper ECU

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fair enough, I am in no way a tire expert so I'm not familiar with all the terms and conditions. I'll definitely note down the AD09 to potentially try in the future. Rain is not too big of a concern for now as I will probably only drive in the rain when I have to. And considering I still lack experience driving the GTR I'd more than likely take it easy too. I have coilovers in the car but as I barely got to drive so far I never bothered to even check if they are adjustable haha. The suspension is almost entirely old and worn as well so I suppose when I eventually fix that in the future that would make a huge difference.
    • There's not a great deal to report here .... except ...... FOR .... LSD!!!  I bought a Quaife LSD from the UK and shipped it here .... Wish I'd just bought locally cause the shipping and duty was $700! But there were so many diffs used in the E90s I just wanted to be absolutely certain I was getting the right one so I spoke with a supplier in the UK who builds race cars and they have heaps of experience with the E90s.  I pulled the diff out which was seriously awesome - I've never done anything like that before, I must have watched 1000 videos on YT about it as well as consulting the Bentley manual. It was super easy in the end. The diff was delivered to the awesome folks at Hornsby Diffs and will be back in a few weeks. I also replaced the diff bushings with some Nolathane ones.  Really looking forward to getting it back and getting back to the track or even the skidpan.
    • yeah... the 13kg/mm springs weren't always in there, I had 10kg/mm but doing a few SMSP commanded heavier front springs. It's so good now going into T1 and T2, just need more seat time and real tyres.
    • Yes, well. Mine are less than half that. ARBs are not set to "dumb" either.
    • I would hope. But, we all know even the best companies have an issue sporadically.
×
×
  • Create New...