Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering what you guys think is a safe rev limit for my motor, the tuner set it at 7500rpm but I want to make sure it is likely to last hitting these revs.

it has been build with acl race bearings, stock rods, arp rod bolts, arias forged pistons and everything else has just been freshened up and is standard. Running 18psi which drops down to 15 at the top end on a gcg highflowed rb20 turbo making 236kw and dropping off after about 7300rpm

Would you guys set it lower at say 7-7.3k? or you think with decent bearings and better rod bolts it should be fine hitting 7500?

It is a street car and only occasionally tracked, if I do I will aim to keep revs below 6500-7000 just to be kind to the motor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337139-safe-rev-limit-for-built-rb25/
Share on other sites

Just wondering what you guys think is a safe rev limit for my motor, the tuner set it at 7500rpm but I want to make sure it is likely to last hitting these revs.

it has been build with acl race bearings, stock rods, arp rod bolts, arias forged pistons and everything else has just been freshened up and is standard. Running 18psi which drops down to 15 at the top end on a gcg highflowed rb20 turbo making 236kw and dropping off after about 7300rpm

Would you guys set it lower at say 7-7.3k? or you think with decent bearings and better rod bolts it should be fine hitting 7500?

It is a street car and only occasionally tracked, if I do I will aim to keep revs below 6500-7000 just to be kind to the motor.

The factory redline is 7500 isn't it?

Plus the turbo wouldn't make more power past 7000rpm I would imagine so there is really no sense shifting after that point

Doesn't sound like there is much point revving it past 7000rpm anyway.... crank collar and oil mods been done to it?

Not that I know of, would have to speak to the builder. I try and shift around 7000rpm but with the crap tyres I have it hits the limiter half the time as it doesn't get traction.

Makes peak power from 6300 - 7200rpm basically flat there at 236kw

Edited by Rolls
Stock will run all day at 7000. Is it fully balanced? If you want to change at 7K then 7200 sounds like it would do.

Yep that was part of the assembly everything was properly balanced and all tolerances double checked.

Whilst I don't have any need to rev it over 7000 I guess I am more curious about the mechanical strength. I'm sure someone has done the calcs of where bits tend to let go and which parts need to be strengthened to overcome this.

Yep that was part of the assembly everything was properly balanced and all tolerances double checked.

Whilst I don't have any need to rev it over 7000 I guess I am more curious about the mechanical strength. I'm sure someone has done the calcs of where bits tend to let go and which parts need to be strengthened to overcome this.

We rev our race cars to 8500 and 8800rpm. I have friends who rev their RB26's to 10k and the Nitto R34 would have to rev somewhere close to 11 or 12.

Forged crank if you wanna go over 9000. Harmonic balancer upgrade, oil pump upgrade...etc....etc...where do you want to stop?

You should just tell us how far you want to rev your engine and we can tell you what you need to upgrade to safely do it

^^^^ What Dan said.

I really really miss the sound of my 25 at 8000rpm :)

I miss the sound of your engine too mate, what a cracker it was!

I have a fully rebuilt RB25, my tuner set the rev limit to 7200, only ever hit it at Texi days when its wheel spinning and boosting and then WHACK, limiter. Does not make any more power from roughly 6800 onwards, but it does sound hot :)

Forged crank if you wanna go over 9000. Harmonic balancer upgrade, oil pump upgrade...etc....etc...where do you want to stop?

You should just tell us how far you want to rev your engine and we can tell you what you need to upgrade to safely do it

I don't really need to or want to rev it any higher due to the turbo setup, just trying to get an understanding of where it would fail and why with the current parts. A lot of anecdotal evidence with peoples personal rev limits but I haven't read much about where they will actually fail and what parts will go.

Also providing a perfect tune what actually does kill them, limiter bashing, outright power, or just spinning the rpm too high no matter what the load is?

Edited by Rolls
I don't really need to or want to rev it any higher due to the turbo setup, just trying to get an understanding of where it would fail and why with the current parts. A lot of anecdotal evidence with peoples personal rev limits but I haven't read much about where they will actually fail and what parts will go.

Also providing a perfect tune what actually does kill them, limiter bashing, outright power, or just spinning the rpm too high no matter what the load is?

Revs is the biggest killer. As you increase revs the bearing load increases exponentially. I did see some figures somewhere but it escapes me atm, what they were claiming was that to go from 7500 to 8500 rpm actually doubles the load or something along those lines.

I think it was 500rpm wasnt it? Either was it's massive :P

And what actually lets go can vary as it depends on what parts are inside.

poor rod bolts would mean a rod lets go. if not it could be bearings. Its all subjective in many cases as to what the 'specific' weak point is.

Even if you address a specific weak point, nothing to say it wont fail from just simple bad luck - nothing is perfect.

I reckon it will be fine, not like your running heaps of power, So all though its revving hard theres not the strain that say 300kw would put on the enigne..

I wouldn't worry too much, just drive it and remember to shift before 7500 and it'll be fine.

Id say your tuner knew there was more power up top so gave you the ability to use it..

Sounds like you've built a nice revvy motor that will have very snappy acceleration, be great out of corners...

i think you are best keeping it low as possible where it still makes good power and doesnt drop off

if the boost is already dropping off, thats a sign its becoming in-efficient already

ive had my 33 for about 7 years now on std turbo and engine still with 230k on the clock (got it at 53k)

and i never see the limiter and usually short change the gear around 6500rpm as you can feel the power trail off

so i think this is a good insurance policy as a general practice, it may even make the car overall quicker vs letting it rev out to 7500rpm

Not that I know of, would have to speak to the builder. I try and shift around 7000rpm but with the crap tyres I have it hits the limiter half the time as it doesn't get traction.

Makes peak power from 6300 - 7200rpm basically flat there at 236kw

Sounds like the perfect limit it, holds 236kw at 7200+ so if you want to hold it in gear for a long corner for any reason you can without hitting the limiter...

hitting the limiter is nasty but holding it right near it is great and thats where all the power is..

If a 300kw car can hold 7000 no worries i reckon a 236kw one, handbuilt with good bearings will have no problems at all at 7500 as long as it was built properly..oil cooler would be advisable if your up there all the time though..

Edited by Arthur T3

i could be wrong but i remember reading in one of the magazine that that if you double the rpms you increase the load by 10 fold..

off the top of my head if you were spinning twice as quick, your pistons would be moving twice as fast, 4 times the energy with half as long to slow down, so thats probably 8 fold right there.. so from 7-8, thats roughly 50% increased load on the pistons n bearings.. but at 7300 thats only roughly 15% more.. if you take into consideration your forged pistons are probably slightly lighter than stock pistons, along with stronger bearings.. its probably a good compromise

Jarrod

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...