Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im sure they could do it, I just don't know what it will cost as they will have to learn the ecu oddities. I have paid over 2k in tuning time I think, Cihan has it down pat now. lol.

Its worth the trip, I have heard there are 4 cars coming down from Sydney soon... Are you doing the install with the stock turbo?

Nice. There would have to be someone in Adelaide who can tune it. Ill have to talk to a couple of the tuners I know and see if they can do it.

You would think that there would be someone in Sydney as well would you! Don't make the same mistake I did and throw money at BS artist's tuners who may give you a good end figure but a shit tune.....make sure they know what they are talking about....most of them have not even seen a VQ25DET.

The road trip is worth it to make sure it's done right. How much HP are you looking for BTW? There's 4 Stagea's in OZ atm all pumping better figures and more drivable than any others...Cihan tuned em all!

  • 1 year later...

Oh man, some good stuff in this topic, but not enough hard straight, 'this is how you do it'.

Has anyone in Adelaide talked to Mark Tilbrook, Martin Donnan or Morpowa about what can be done with these cars?

How can an R35 GTR be tuned and not these?

Oh man, some good stuff in this topic, but not enough hard straight, 'this is how you do it'.

Has anyone in Adelaide talked to Mark Tilbrook, Martin Donnan or Morpowa about what can be done with these cars?

How can an R35 GTR be tuned and not these?

I'm pretty sure one of the Adelaide lads approached Mr Donnon regarding tuning; and the answer was the same as most of the other channels.

The issue in not actually being able to tune the ECU; it can and has been done.

The issue is building a worthwhile business case for someone to actually set up the hardware to do it.

My understanding is; that there are several series/versions (up to 12?) of the VQ25DET ECU; so even if you can read/program one version, you may not be able to the next version.

So, if you own a car with the version that can be tuned; great; but if you don't; tough shit.

The number of potential customers isn't large enough to justify the expense of developing the reader/programmer.

TL/DR; Buy an E-manage or an F-con V Pro.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...