Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heres inside the tube I back purge all my pipe work so there is no dags inside the pipe and when you get full penetration like above the welds are ALOT stronger.

I have had my Stainless tube work pressure tested at over 20bar without issue :yes:

DSC_0689.jpg

Thanks :) yes they are all just fused no filler wire mate. I weld fairly hot but I move fast as I walk the ceramic (a welding technique) I weld tube at about 55 amps but if you are still learning id suggest around 40-45 amps depending on your welder as some are hotter than others. For welding tube id suggest getting a gas lense as it gives better gas coverage over your arc. No fancy settings just set the right amps (machine pending) I set my ramp up fairly cold at bout 20amp base temp at 50-55amp and I set my ramp down to about 3.5 seconds and my post purge to bout 5 seconds. If you look at pic above you can see where I start to ramp down the amps and continue weaving up the tube. Notice the colour change towards the end where I let the post purge cool down end of the run (the bluey colour)

When I purge I run about 5-7 lpm through the tube with basically a hole I stab with my filler wire.

Yes I used pickling paste to clean the welds but just polish it by hand with green scotchbrite pads

HAHA thanks Johnny well it is what I do for a living so id hope id be good at it lol!

To that I answer is the pope a catholic? Cash and beer are both very important parts of my life :yes:

damnnnnn Mick, that's top notch welding!

Hope you're up for some welding and payment by slabs of beer & cash lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...