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Im sure its been asked before but search didnt bring much up.

Its about time for my M35's service, I was thinking of taking it back to northshore if they do servicing, but its a bit of a hike for me ( south of bankstown) so does anyone know a place I can trust it with? if not I dont mind traveling, but I want somewhere which knows what there doing.

Also what other then general fluids do we check on m35's?

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Northshore do have a workshop and can perform services.

What area are you from? There is another workshop in West Ryde called ProConcept that does good work. My Silvia's have been there for work, and mates cars

Just check the usual stuff, coolant level, transmission oil level (when hot). brake fluid. tyre pressure when cold. the usual crap you would check on every car.

imports are not differernt. they are still cars :)

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Im in the bankstown area,

yeah I normally check the standard stuff, just first AWD and turbo car ive owned, thus not sure if there is anything new to check.

I read that ATTESA is hydraulic, does that need to be checked? sorry about the noob questions, previous car I played with was RWD and had a 4AG in it so was like playing with lego compared to the VQ.

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for turbo, regular oil changes are your best option.

the AWD system has a bottle in the boot for the system that sits at the back of the car on the drivers side. its behind the drivers side panel in the boot, check that bottle and make sure its topped up if it gets low. if it gets low a lot. have someone check for leaks. generally though, they keep running. like nissans do lol

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haha yeah if i had the money id have a hell of a lot more mods done to my car!

sorry i meant to mention that im not sure about servicing in your area, but maybe learn to do it yourself. its not hard! if youve done 4age engines, youll probably not burn yourself on the exhaust manifold (like i did on my mrs corolla) on the stagea

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thanks,

also I hate the search button.... made it to easy to look up high-flow's.

now im doing what it seems everyone else has done, trying to figure out the best high-flow option,

In my opinion, if you are happy with the power now, don't put bigger wheels in it, unless you have plans to install an Emanage down the track. Otherwise you will gain lag and bugger all extra power. These boats are laggy enough already with the crappy throttle ramp and ecu protection.

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In my opinion, if you are happy with the power now, don't put bigger wheels in it, unless you have plans to install an Emanage down the track. Otherwise you will gain lag and bugger all extra power. These boats are laggy enough already with the crappy throttle ramp and ecu protection.

Agreed on that front, I laaaaaag but once the power comes in (now that I have a non-stock ecu) :)

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Im in the bankstown area,

yeah I normally check the standard stuff, just first AWD and turbo car ive owned, thus not sure if there is anything new to check.

I read that ATTESA is hydraulic, does that need to be checked? sorry about the noob questions, previous car I played with was RWD and had a 4AG in it so was like playing with lego compared to the VQ.

I'm not too far from you, may have seen you on river rd the other day.

they are pretty easy to look after, if you encounter any problems, noises etc i am sure its all covered in here how to fix it.

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Yeah I'm always on river rd. I'm usually good at spotting stagea but must of missed you.

I like the power I think. But I wish it came on quicker or a bit more aggressive.

Trying to get it to a stage where I can take 'spirited' driving most days as I have a pit of a job lol :)

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  • 1 month later...

Easiest way to do DIY though is check the level when warm (trans warm, not engine warm), drain, measure the amount that came out and top up with that same amount of fresh fluid.

Then you can either

1. Do it again in a week to minimise the content of "old fluid" (easy/safer way, but time consuming/more costly) or

2. Detach the radiator "in" transmission line, turn the car on and slowly put more new fluid in the dipstick tube (at about the same rate as what comes out the radiator line) while a mate monitors the colour of the fluid that comes out. Once it has a nice colour to it, stop pouring and put that radiator line back on, run it through all gears and check fluid level. Top up if necessary. (this is a more thorough way of getting the old fluid out, but can be difficult to sync the pouring and draining AND can be quite easy to over-fill)

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  • 4 months later...

Changed the diff oil in both front and rear diffs. Used Motul Gear 300

Quite easy. Used a bit of a guidance by Aaron via PM a couple of weeks before hand on how many litres to expect and a few tools required.

I've got photos. Might put up a tutorial.

Used an 10mm allen key (but cheated and used a 10mm allen socket with breaker bar/rachet spanner)

Drained the old oil fairly quickly, and then flushed, and cleaned off all the old metallic wear from the magnet!

Filled her up and laughing! Very easy.

When you do a normal oil change, (taking the front tray off) the front diff is EASY to access to change the oil in. :thumbsup:

Overall, it's a very quick and easy thing to do!

Oil was expensive though! I bought 3L of Motul (in 1 litre containers) in 75W-90 in 300 (I think it was...) It was $30 a bottle!

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