Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^ Further more...

I wonder if the compressor wheels on the Airwerks line of BW turbos can be interchanged for the EFR compressors.
EG - Purchasing a EFR8374, removing the 62/83mm compressor and replacing it with a BW 64.5/88mm compressor... The turbine side should be large enough to still power that size compressor??

^ You don't think BW will develop a 64mm turbo?

My response was moreso in reference to a hybrid thing of potentially mismatched technologies, althouth in respect of this question I would say no. I don't.

The current field feedback doesn't appear to indicate a void between the two that would necessitate a new product, particularly considering the smaller demographic at the target outputs. Most of the early comments (admittedly from the likes of FR) read to the tune of "go bigger, you won't miss anything".

Sometimes its good to roll back and have a second read of the thread to form a better opinion on this sort of thing. A varied knowledge base like what most full-time SAUers have leaves our opinions a little tainted, and I feel we may be searching for a 64mm alternative purely because other hot-topic competitor outfits have them. Correct me if I am wrong but even FP have jumped on the PTE sizing bandwagon.

Anyhows, such is another opinion.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Here I am again, I took 2 weeks to read the whole 94 pages..

Long story short : RB26 Head need a rebuilt, I was leaning toward a RB28 + billet 60mm on my twins ; A few friends told me it would weaken my block and would push the turbos to their limits = not so ''safe'' and reliable option.

They told me to stay rb26 and put a single... more reliable and the single won't be pushed to the limits., I like the idea, so I want a EFR!! :D

RB26 Forged piston + type-B poncam ( I could swap them if needs to be..), I would really prefer to keep my 3 inch exhaust ( it's quiet and cops never give me trouble). IT WOULD BE TUNED ON 94 octane + WMI (aquamist kit).

I want response ( I used to drive GT-SS and somewhat missed the quicker response the gt-ss had Vs. the -5s) and I reckon IWG 0.92 would spool quicker than 1.05 and would be a good load cheaper!

- Considering I only have acces to 94+ WMI.. I don't think going any higher than 26-27psi is recommanded, Agree on this ?

So which EFR, should provide me the best response/power at 23-27psi on a 2.6L ? is 81/90

83/74 0.92 IWG ? ( I would upgrade to the Turbosmart IWG EFR option) I'm hesiting because sub-boy did 640whp on a rb30 with this turbo.. so with 400cc less and 3 inch exhaust vs 3.5, should I be expecting approx. 600whp out of it ? or even less..

(without beeing a dynoqueen, I somewhat wished to break the 600whp marks ( I was at 573whp with my -5s), but ''transient response'' is still more important in my book than the bragging number)

Edited by cobrAA

I run both 8374 and 9180 turbos on my 2.6L engine, the EFR8374 is my call for a street driven 2.6L rb26... 1 bar by 3400rpm and so much fun to drive. The 9180 is a bigger turbo, comes on later and hits much harder. Regardless of this, the WG config will depend on which fuel you are using and your boost targets.. for a street car the 0.92 makes a lot of sense. i prefer the IWG because it is so simple and lightweight, but externals do have their benefits also

I run both 8374 and 9180 turbos on my 2.6L engine, the EFR8374 is my call for a street driven 2.6L rb26... 1 bar by 3400rpm and so much fun to drive. The 9180 is a bigger turbo, comes on later and hits much harder. Regardless of this, the WG config will depend on which fuel you are using and your boost targets.. for a street car the 0.92 makes a lot of sense. i prefer the IWG because it is so simple and lightweight, but externals do have their benefits also

your 8374 is the 1.05 right ? so should the 0.92 spool a tad quicker then ?

As for your question, I said in the previous post, we only have acces to 94 octane and I added WMI, so I imagine 27psi should be approx. the max I could go without being in the danger zone.

thank you

I run both 8374 and 9180 turbos on my 2.6L engine, the EFR8374 is my call for a street driven 2.6L rb26... 1 bar by 3400rpm and so much fun to drive.

1 bar at 3400 in 4th on the road? How about the 9180?

Videos please!!! That's almost enough to convince me to switch from my 6262 (if it fits on my manifold), in fact if I can make 700hp on a Dynapack with SAE2004 with a 8374 T4 1.05 and it makes 1 bar by 3400 I will purchase :)

your 8374 is the 1.05 right ? so should the 0.92 spool a tad quicker then ?

As for your question, I said in the previous post, we only have acces to 94 octane and I added WMI, so I imagine 27psi should be approx. the max I could go without being in the danger zone.

thank you

Im switching back to 8374 0.92 a/r now. We have a new shop track car to focus on, so my Nissan will go back to being a fun casual project. Considering your boost limits and fuel, I agree the 0.92 could work well. Just expect the turbo to run out of exhaust flow around 625-645whp as opposed to 700-730 with the external gates and 1.05 a/r

1 bar at 3400 in 4th on the road? How about the 9180?

Videos please!!! That's almost enough to convince me to switch from my 6262 (if it fits on my manifold), in fact if I can make 700hp on a Dynapack with SAE2004 with a 8374 T4 1.05 and it makes 1 bar by 3400 I will purchase :)

compared to 8374, the 9180 came on song ~400-500rpm later. I can not verify fitment on other company's manifolds, but even on the older Full-Race RB manifolds the EFR will fit no problem. Just make sure its divided with dual wg for optimal performance. If a gt40R can fit it then EFRs can fit

here is a dyno video from a couple years ago when my car had 8374 1.05 a/r on a dynapack with R33 trans and catalytic converter:

Edited by Full-Race Geoff

Im switching back to 8374 0.92 a/r now. We have a new shop track car to focus on, so my Nissan will go back to being a fun casual project. Considering your boost limits and fuel, I agree the 0.92 could work well. Just expect the turbo to run out of exhaust flow around 625-645whp as opposed to 700-730 with the external gates and 1.05 a/r

I apologize for being annoying in advance :)

I rather save 1000$ish and put it toward a Quaife front diff ( my engine is coming out this winter). However, I also know, 6 month later, I will regret not paying an extra 1000$ to get an extra 75whp so I rather do it right the first time. ( At the same time, I gotta ask if 700whp ish isn't too hard for a standard 5speed gearbox..)

Spool : How much of a difference is there between the 0.92 and 1.05 ? Are we talking something like 150rpm or we're talking 400-500rpm ?

Power: I know the 1.05 can make 700whp, you did it, but you also had 3.5 inch ( I have 3 inch) and you have E85 ( I only have 94+WMI), so given the same 1.05ar , shouldn't I be more in the 650whp mark Vs your 700whp ? In other words, I'm unsure if my setup will be able to make ''full-use'' of the 1.05ar.

Thanks a lot! ( I rather write it here than PM so other can benefit from the answer)

I rather save 1000$ish and put it toward a Quaife front diff

I consider a good front diff a mandatory upgrade on an R32/R33 (stock is fragile) and even though R34's front diff is stronger the improvement in vehicle dynamics from a proper limited slip differential is hard to argue with

I gotta ask if 700whp ish isn't too hard for a standard 5speed gearbox..)

yes, 700whp is too much for a standard 5speed and wayy too much for a stock front diff. front diff will probably fail before the trans, but 3rd and 4th gear will let go too.

Spool : How much of a difference is there between the 0.92 and 1.05 ? Are we talking something like 150rpm or we're talking 400-500rpm ?

with the stiff actuator on the 0.92 a/r I'd guesstimate the spool difference to be ~200-250rpm due to the smaller A/R.

However, if a soft iwg actuator is on the 0.92 then they will spool about the same

I know the 1.05 can make 700whp, you did it, but you also had 3.5 inch ( I have 3 inch) and you have E85 ( I only have 94+WMI)

since you only have access to 94octane fuel with water/meth you are not going to be making that kind of power safely. Pump fuel is such poor consistency from pump to pump that you can not safely map with aggressive ignition timing. I made 590 on my car with pump gas, I could have made more and pushed it harder but I think that is probably a good stopping point and with meth you can get into the low-to-mid 600 range.

keep in mind i was using an off-the-shelf catalytic converter, thats a big restriction. Admittedly we try to run E85 in everything since its easier on the motor to run high boost with some ignition advance

A mate on here went from -5's to a 8374 internal 0.92 rear. 5-700 rpm earlier it comes on and makes more power. Given that Geoff reckons the 1.05 will be 150-200 rpm behind the 0.92, you're still infront.

A mate on here went from -5's to a 8374 internal 0.92 rear. 5-700 rpm earlier it comes on and makes more power. Given that Geoff reckons the 1.05 will be 150-200 rpm behind the 0.92, you're still infront.

so it's a done deal. Buying a 1.05 :)

Btw, did your mate posted his result/comparaison somewhere on the net, I couldn't find any rb26 with a 0.92 from my research.

Will gladly post result when I have them ( in about 6 months considering where I live lol)

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Initially I thought having a pair of Recaro seats would be a big bonus, it turns out these do get a little uncomfortable on long journeys (my fault, not the seat). I had a look through the GSM Performance website at reclining seats and booked an appointment to visit their show room. I got the Recaro Sportster CS for the R34 from here, was very happy with the service received so of course a re-visit was in order. Unfortunately the two Corbeau seats I had chosen aren't on display but they had 4 other options available. Two seats dug into my back, one dug into my legs and the other was perfect. I also found out that Recaro seats use a larger bolt pattern so some adaption was required. Luckily GSM offer some universal adaptors that should solve this problem. I searched the interwebs for price comparisons and Corbeau themselves were the cheapest at £300 cheaper (for the pair). I asked GSM if they could price match, unfortunately they couldn't. I later received an email saying Corbeau would honour them the same discount, but the purchase was already made. I did however order the brackets from GSM, both arrived on the same day. I started with the passenger side seat, knowing this was going to be a little trial and error. There are 3 mounting holes at the front and 2 at the rear on these JURAN Racing seat rails.  With the adaptor brackets mounted, the allen cap bolts started to push into the seat, NOT GOOD!  The rear mounting holes lined up but there were issues at the front. The holes were 1/2 hole out, so the brackets got a tickle with the drill to modify the holes. The supplied bolts weren't going to be long enough and a spacer was needed to stop the adaptor bars from bending. A local fasteners company supplied be with some nylon spacers and longer bolts (M8x30, although these will be replaced with 35mm long shortly) A before and after I pre-drilled the front bracket before making a start on the driver's seat to save some time. And in no time at all that was in the car too. The all black seats have transformed the interior and these are MUCH more comfortable. The only downside with the new Corbeau seats is I sit a little higher, but I'll happily accept that over discomfort. The Youtube video can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPyttKPktXA
    • All 3 I guess. The car came with the JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit unpainted so this was one thing at the top of my list to complete then I noticed there were body panels parts for this kit so i picked them up along with some black mesh to fill in the front bumper and front side air vents. car is at a paint and body shop atm completing this work. Next I will be addressing the internal bells and whistles, great summer project I can do with the kids.  full interior removal - ,boys car sound deadening - pads and spray ,boys stereo, sound, lighting - Big 3, GTT or bigger alternator ,kids head lining - dye black add star lighting mod ,daughter. That's it for the next 5-6 months. I have some motor maintenance  work i have to plan out. oil filter relocation, gaskets, mounts. beyond that, mind is starting to turn over if i can use a DET intake plenum, block off turbo ports & pipe in a air intake.      
    • roller coaster of a ride. Alarm system was removed & main harness was repaired where possible. still no fix just random successful starts. moved on to the replacing the ignition switch and relay. well all this troubleshooting & repair has been going on, the car is at a paint and body shop being pushed around. Ive been going down there on odd days after work to get it sorted.     
    • 5th November if you want to come out for a spin wakfield
×
×
  • Create New...