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How much spike

It feels like as it ranps up it hits the over boost warning/limit so it bleeds some off, then does it again.

It's enough to think the driver gets on the loud pedal then backs off then nails it again.

It feels like as it Tampa up it hits the over boost warning/limit so it bleeds some off, then does it again.

It's enough to think the driver gets on the loud pedal then backs off then nails it again.

It does not do it the second time now, similar the first time, maybe a bit earlier, just after 4000rpm

Going out in early the morning if it is sunny to see how the glare is with that dash mat and will give it a good run and keep a better eye on it

Would the same spiking situation be happening if the HKS boost controller was controlling the boost, I am not changing anything, just wondering ?

Short answer to this is yes, it would still spike, but then all you would do is decrease your duty cycle.

Don't how the haltec does it but I assume it just controls a mac valve, so your tuner just needs to start the bleed off later if its just spiking as boost is ramping. It just makes it a bit less aggressive.

If you are using an external wastegate with both ports being used, an old school way is just crimp the vac line going to the top port with a hose clamp just enough to restrict flow, or put a bleed valve in that line and bleed it off. In both cases the top chamber will have less pressure and reduce your boost, and can be adjusted when ever you want without really messing up your ecu if its just setting fixed parameters to a mac valve's duty cycle and gain.

Short answer to this is yes, it would still spike, but then all you would do is decrease your duty cycle.

Don't how the haltec does it but I assume it just controls a mac valve, so your tuner just needs to start the bleed off later if its just spiking as boost is ramping. It just makes it a bit less aggressive.

If you are using an external wastegate with both ports being used, an old school way is just crimp the vac line going to the top port with a hose clamp just enough to restrict flow, or put a bleed valve in that line and bleed it off. In both cases the top chamber will have less pressure and reduce your boost, and can be adjusted when ever you want without really messing up your ecu if its just setting fixed parameters to a mac valve's duty cycle and gain.

It is an easy fix through the Haltech, just a little less aggression. I thought it was sorted ?

I was just wondering if the boost controller would just stop it before it spiked as it would be set to whatever, say 25psi and just limit it to the 25psi ?

It is all VOODOO to me :/

It is an easy fix through the Haltech, just a little less aggression. I thought it was sorted ?

I was just wondering if the boost controller would just stop it before it spiked as it would be set to whatever, say 25psi and just limit it to the 25psi ?

It is all VOODOO to me :/

The haltech would be doing that, the problem is that you can't turn the boost down when you see over boost on a cold day. That's why I suggested a bleed valve on your top wastegate port. Speak to your tuner to see if its an option as its easy to install. Edited by XGTRX

The haltech would be doing that, the problem is that you can't turn the boost down when you see over boost on a cold day. That's why I suggested a bleed valve on your top wastegate port. Speak to your tuner to see if its an option as its easy to install.

Will do, thanks

Fyi the high boost borg warner EFR cannister will yield 17 psi right at 4k rpms rolling in 3rd straight off the cannister and settles at 16.5 or so. But this is as low as it goes in the midrange at 3 turns in (lowest recommended setting). After 7k, however, boost will drop steadily down to 13 psi at 8000. This is with NO BOOST CONTROL.

I started with boost control yesterday and found that with closed loop starting to bleed 100% up until the control point (3 psi before target for me), the boost will hit 17 psi at 3750! I'm going to start tweaking that today on top end to get solid boost control. Should be easier to trim that now and I'm going to closed loop boost control as well.

  • 2 weeks later...

Alright, I'm reading all of this and getting a little excited.

I'm going to have on more play around with -9s and see what we can get (want more response, want a bit more excitement) and if that doesn't work will look at going single.

Piggaz been in my ear so here I am.

7670 in 1.05 on an internally stock rb26, stock cams (with gears) and all the usual supporting mods. Yes or no? What power will it make and how responsive will it be.

Has Haltech pro plug in, is flex fuel and runs mostly on e85 as it's a weekender.

Friend of mine just tuned his Evo 7 with a 7670 with 1.05 turbine. Motor is a Built high comp 2L. His clutch started slipping so he capped it at 380kw with 27psi by 3900 & was making around 570nm of torque by 4400 (from memory) he said the car drove like a stock turbo evo on the road.

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