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ha guys

just installed a oil cooler between the radiator and intercooler to control oil temp mainly on the track, but it works really well and on the street after 30 minutes driving, some hard stuff, oil temp is only about 75, before cooler would be 90+, oil is mobil 1 , 0-40

So question is, is an operating temp of 70-80 degrees ok, I'm sure it will be hotter on the track..

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I run a Greddy oil thermostat, it opens at around 80 so that sounds fine. As long as it doesn't get too cold in winter or take too long to heat to operating temp. If it does, get a thermostat.

I'm pretty sure it all the usual thermostats, but does take an awful long time to warm up, what other thermostat are you talking about

The greddy kits come with a thermostat inside the filter block. It only passes the oil to the cooler once the oil temp is above 80 degrees. This allows the oil to warm up quickly, not really an issue on a track car but on the road, best of both worlds.

The greddy kits come with a thermostat inside the filter block. It only passes the oil to the cooler once the oil temp is above 80 degrees. This allows the oil to warm up quickly, not really an issue on a track car but on the road, best of both worlds.

yeah thats what I need, where did you get yours from and do you reckon they would sell just the filter block with thermostat in

I got mine second hand from the for sale section, they pop up occasionally. There are many other options though, block ones and inline. Do a google image search for oil cooler thermostat.

Not sure if they are available separately but they wouldn't be cheap, great quality costs.

Coolant thermostats usually open fully at about 82c, without an aftermarket oil cooler, the factory oil/water seperator would normally keep the oil temp at about the same as the coolant temp (in japanese street conditions anyway) since it links the temperatures of the 2 fluids anyway (and acts as a warmer when cold). I think 70-80c is perfectly fine oil operating temperature, but then are you trusting the factory gauge or a aftermarket gauge for that readout?

yeah I am still relying on the factory gauge, I know I need to get an after market one, but it reads a lot lower than it was before I put the cooler on so I know it is cool, only just sitting on the 70 when it used to be quite a way above that.

And I'm not sure about a cover as it sits in front of the radiator, so would effectively block half the radiator?

I think the inline thermastat and after market oil temp gauge is the next course of action..

i remember looking at making my own kit up and an inline thermostat was around the $115 mark and it opened at 85 degrees C

i opted for a cheaper kit, and if i find the oil takes ages to heat up i'll just install one of these myself.

Roughly 80° (cruise) to 100° (under stress) is OK.

And as said above - depends where it is measured. I would suggest that a higher oil flow (consistent higher revs) will see a higher temp readout even when the oil doing all the work in the block/crank/side of pistons hasn't changed temp.

Then pick your viscosity to suit since it varies so much with temperature (depending upon the viscosity index of the oil - higher is always better). Better off with a thicker base oil synthetic (higher cold flow rating - narrower viscosity spread) if you don't get cold temps, especially if racing in summer.

earls sell an oilstat. costs about $100. the only thing is in order to fit it you need to add 4 fittings and some hose to your set-up which blows the cost out a bit. far better to get a kit like the greddy ones that have it built in. mocal sell one too.

75C is ok. 80 is ideal. but the real problem is how much longer it's taking to get up to that 75C. it's all the time spent with it at 30/40/50C etc that does the damage. hence why the oilstat's completely bypass the oil cooler core until oil temp hits 80C.

$100 for thermostat plus $50 each for -12 fittings is getting pricey but I think I need one takes like 15 minutes to get to 70-75 just sitting there idling with about 8 litres of oil ! sump extention plus relocator plus cooler = a lot of oil to heat

as for Mocal I just bought and waited ages for mocal sandwich plate with thermostat and -12 fittings so I didn't have to do the relocator, to keep the pipe work to a minimum. got it and there is no way it will fit an RB26, one of the takeoffs runs straight into the engine mount, there is just no way it could fit! so theres $200 down the toilet, for sale if someone wants to have a crack.

I need a thermostat with -12 fittings as that is what all my braid line and cooler blocks etc run, there is one on the summiracing site, but why does it have 2 inlets and 2 outlets wouldn't I just need 1 each way to go between the block and filter relocator??

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