Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey mang, if you get a 35 nikon from the US I can probably ship it down with mine. I'm ordering a wideangle fast lens.

http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-35mm-AF-S-Digi...7440&sr=1-1

$188 + $30 shipping.

If I didn't have a nifty fifty Nikor I'd get it. In fact. Buy my nifty fifty for $150 :P I'll have the 35 (with the DX ratio it works out almost 50mm IRL anyways).

  • Replies 317
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

the non VC tammy is suppose to be very sharp!

(which is why im so tempted!)

(well that and the bloody good price!)

That's the one I've got :P It's fuckin awesome. So much so that it's become the lens I use 90% of the time. I used my mate Nikkor equivalent, and I gotta say the tammy shits all over it at the extremes (nikkor had a bit of CA).

I'm thinking of grabbing a tokina 11 - 16mm f2.8

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014Z5XMK

Oh BTW, if you're buying from the US. Wait a week and a bit and buy on Black Friday. The sales are usually epic.

eg:

http://www.nextag.com/Tokina-11-16MM-F-605...ce-history-html

i like the treatment of the second one, but i think it lacks absolute whites if you know what i mean. just from a viewers perspective, it looks a bit 'muddy' otherwise? i do love the composition tho ;)

on the topic of composition...

this is me at work. it seriously only takes 13 seconds to take a photo (sometimes its all the free time I have). just point and shoot baby, thats how i roll.

74365_1529251224316_1025781561_31209974_5821984_n.jpg

and the "making of" video...

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1529248824256

i probably should have spent a couple seconds in photoshop straightening it a bit tho, lol. slack! :D

Edited by Jay019

just drove past an old XY or something falcon having photos taken near my place... i'll see if i can streetview it... you can't see it exactly but it's close enough:

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source...,146.75,,0,8.66

if the street view works, against those sheds.

being SAU, thought you guys might like these...

73495_1530584137638_1025781561_31212146_430983_n.jpg

149132_1530584377644_1025781561_31212148_5220620_n.jpg

:dry:

and spotted these at one of the fancy hotels in town...

148743_1530601098062_1025781561_31212160_5543005_n.jpg

77181_1530601218065_1025781561_31212161_3578579_n.jpg

and a few non car pics

150366_1530602098087_1025781561_31212170_5605129_n.jpg

149240_1530583617625_1025781561_31212141_1648754_n.jpg

74215_1530582497597_1025781561_31212133_4159819_n.jpg

77067_1530601978084_1025781561_31212169_4055574_n.jpg

More at http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2071...mp;l=24f11db5f3

Those Ferrari's belong to Ferrari Club of Aus. Ive shot most of them before at Wakefield. Epic to see them in Adelaide!!

The guy that owns that yellow scuderia looks about 24 lol.

Edited by FST513

yeah i wonder what they were doing in adelaide? i wasnt even going to bother with pics but it was the end of the day and the guy out the front looked at me as if i was scum so i thought, yep, imma stop and take some pics just to piss you off, haha.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...