Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hahaha If only the nissan stagea came in ute form right?

Find me one of those and I'll buy it.

will go for a test drive later this week... I owned a Ford XR6 a while ago, thought it was good for the money. does anyone know if the holden is capable of having the hook points on the outside of the tray for the soft Tornau??? Because when i owned the old Ford that was the best thing about it... i've seen the new soft tornau's and how they latch up on the inside personally i think the older ones are better.

The commodore soft cover setup is MUCH better than the clips, and Im a ford man through and through.

both the L98 and the 4L turbo are excellent engines.

the ford will carry more in the tray.

but either way I would be happy with any of them.

You mean 98 ron?

-shakehead-

Also what fails, is holden's "brand new touchscreen" system.... Soarers came out with touch screen dash in the early 1990s -.-

Go FPV

Yes they also came with an AUD equivalent $100,000+ pricetag too. Technology always filters down to the family car maker after prestige are done with it - you didn't expect Holden to make a profit off selling a $20,000 Commodore with touch screen and electric seats at the time did you?

Both these cars are great...in contrast to zebra, I'm a Holden man...but over the years I've come to appreciate both Holden and Ford for how far they have come with the vehicles they are producing. Forum opinions are useless for this kind of thing unless there are known problems with one or the other...go test drive them both and flip a coin if you get stuck. You probably won't look back with either choice.

Being the owner of a FPV and a Ford, I am a bit biased, but your choice of a BF FPV Tornado vs a new SS-V, I would get the Holden.

The reaosn is the new commo has better tech than the BF. If you put a SSV and a New FG XR6Turbo ute, I would get the Ford.

The Ford FG is so much nicer inside than the Holden and will also carry 1ton, be more responsive to mods (300rwkw under $3k) and if you get the ZF auto is a gearbox made in heaven.

The commodore soft cover setup is MUCH better than the clips, and Im a ford man through and through.

both the L98 and the 4L turbo are excellent engines.

the ford will carry more in the tray.

but either way I would be happy with any of them.

Yes they also came with an AUD equivalent $100,000+ pricetag too. Technology always filters down to the family car maker after prestige are done with it - you didn't expect Holden to make a profit off selling a $20,000 Commodore with touch screen and electric seats at the time did you?

Both these cars are great...in contrast to zebra, I'm a Holden man...but over the years I've come to appreciate both Holden and Ford for how far they have come with the vehicles they are producing. Forum opinions are useless for this kind of thing unless there are known problems with one or the other...go test drive them both and flip a coin if you get stuck. You probably won't look back with either choice.

Being the owner of a FPV and a Ford, I am a bit biased, but your choice of a BF FPV Tornado vs a new SS-V, I would get the Holden.

The reaosn is the new commo has better tech than the BF. If you put a SSV and a New FG XR6Turbo ute, I would get the Ford.

The Ford FG is so much nicer inside than the Holden and will also carry 1ton, be more responsive to mods (300rwkw under $3k) and if you get the ZF auto is a gearbox made in heaven.

good points, I'll book in for a test drive of both later this week and we'll see how I go. it's 50/50 at the moment hahaha.. I've heard great things about that ZF gearbox too, but i'm undecided whether it'll be a manual or auto, thats the next question.. cheers for the opinions though.

do u want a current model or a BF FPV????

the bf was produced up until 2008

Heres a BF FPV F6 Tornado

factoryheadlightswt8.jpg

and here is a

Holden SS-V Redline Ute

2007-Holden-VE-SS-V-Ute-Red-Front-And-Side-Speed-2-1024x768.jpg

i like holdens better but i dont mind the BA-FG shape

depends if u like V8 or Inlne 6 Turbos, just test drive and you will see

Edited by ML73ZR
do u want a current model or a BF FPV????

the bf was produced up until 2008

Heres a BF FPV F6 Tornado

factoryheadlightswt8.jpg

and here is a

Holden SS-V Redline Ute

2007-Holden-VE-SS-V-Ute-Red-Front-And-Side-Speed-2-1024x768.jpg

i like holdens better but i dont mind the BA-FG shape

depends if u like V8 or Inlne 6 Turbos, just test drive and you will see

Ford looks fcking tough i reckon, the pros about the SS-V redline is that it will come with everything electronic, like GPS, reverse camera, ipod and etc...

I've got someone who would tune the ford too.. mean sucker once you get going. thanks for the input.

i like both of them. i would simply have to drive them both before i bought either. i do like the thought of the turbo 6 so i would probably lean towards that.

my sister in law's ex had a BA XR6T sedan (just the 240kw one with the 4 speed auto). got a flash tune off CAPA. before the flash (dead stock) he made 248hp (185kw). with the flash tune he made 299hp (222kw), but i can't remember whether that was at 9psi or 11psi. also that was a generic tune (basically a standard map with a slight tweak for the boost increase). the car was never put on the dyno for the tune or anything like that, so there would've been plenty more in it had he had a full tune done. even still, at 9psi it was pretty impressive. gave the feeling like it was holding back a lot too. you'd floor it and it would accelerate well (thanks to a buttload of torque), but you could tell the generic tune and low boost was holding it back and there was a heap more power there just waiting to be unleashed.

i like both of them. i would simply have to drive them both before i bought either. i do like the thought of the turbo 6 so i would probably lean towards that.

my sister in law's ex had a BA XR6T sedan (just the 240kw one with the 4 speed auto). got a flash tune off CAPA. before the flash (dead stock) he made 248hp (185kw). with the flash tune he made 299hp (222kw), but i can't remember whether that was at 9psi or 11psi. also that was a generic tune (basically a standard map with a slight tweak for the boost increase). the car was never put on the dyno for the tune or anything like that, so there would've been plenty more in it had he had a full tune done. even still, at 9psi it was pretty impressive. gave the feeling like it was holding back a lot too. you'd floor it and it would accelerate well (thanks to a buttload of torque), but you could tell the generic tune and low boost was holding it back and there was a heap more power there just waiting to be unleashed.

Hmmm, sounds good, what are the main differences between the FPV F6 tornado and the normal BA XR6T Ute?

F6 had better brakes, suspension, larger turbo and obviously more powerful (270kw rather than 240/245)

Also the different body kit and better interior bits.

Probably just better everything :)

Really comes down to whether you want a V8 or Turbo 6... and whether you want a brand new car vs 2nd hand.

Only thing I can think off is that if you are going to get one with auto transmission then the Ford's ZF 6 speed auto box has the advantage over the Holden's 6 speed auto box, from what I have read at least...

Only problem with driving an XR6 turbo is you have that "I just bought the fastest car on the road" stigma of the atypical XR6 turbo owner. It was much worse when these cars first came out though, very reminiscent of the great midlife WRX crisis of the 90's.

The SS's sound pretty good though, especially with an exhaust. Bang for buck mods the ford will have more power, but in the end, what are you chasing?!

hahaha, can't chase anthing, unless it's on the track... ute will handle like a bucket of shit though.. more for work purposes, plus tax saving too! :P

Easy and relatively cheap power to be had with the FPV, more so than with the holden. I'm very happy with my bf xr6t with the zf auto.

One thing though you're mentioning a 2 year old fpv and a new holden? Why not compare an FG xr6t/f6 as well?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...