Twin Turbo Hhilux Blowing Exhaust Wheels

[Josh_TypeX]

Hey everyone. A mate of mine is building a twin turbo Toyota Hilux with the 2.4L 4 cylinder efi motor. Using R32 GTR turbos. He had it running once and it blew an exhaust wheel when it came on boost. Since we didn't know the history of the turbos we assumed they were at fault. He got a pair of rebuilt turbos and sure enough the same thing happened.

The whole build has been done at home so there's a lot of potential issues. Just a couple problems that come to mind:

- It is currently running with no intercooler (against my advice, though I don't think it would cause this)

- Home made exhaust manifold. Has runners of considerably different lengths with plenty of bends.

Anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

Cheers, Josh

[kwickr33]

Need steel wheels.

[GTScotT]

Buy a pair of -9s to replace them.

It will all bolt up and you wont have this issue.

Under $2500 from memory.

[R31Nismoid]

^ Are you purposefully posting rubbish tonight?

Anyway, what type of "rebuild" did the 2nd set undergo? Wheels changed?

Also is it the same turbo? Is there enough oil flow?

How much boost is being run?

[Josh_TypeX]

Rebuild was apparently new wheels (still ceramic) and bearings. Though I never saw the turbos.

Yeah it was the same turbo, asked my mate if they were getting oil and he said they were. Whether it is enough is another question though.

Turbo blew when it hit 7psi for the first time. So very little boost.

Regarding the steel wheel suggestions, if it is blowing ceramic wheels instantly I don't think steel wheels will help. Would be an expensive test.

[GTRsean]

Rebuild was apparently new wheels (still ceramic) and bearings. Though I never saw the turbos.

Yeah it was the same turbo, asked my mate if they were getting oil and he said they were. Whether it is enough is another question though.

Turbo blew when it hit 7psi for the first time. So very little boost.

Regarding the steel wheel suggestions, if it is blowing ceramic wheels instantly I don't think steel wheels will help. Would be an expensive test.

Lol I like your response that I highlighted in red. Have you researched ceramic turbos at all?

Go the bloody steel wheels for no more busted exhaust turbine.

[Josh_TypeX]

Lol I like your response that I highlighted in red. Have you researched ceramic turbos at all?

Go the bloody steel wheels for no more busted exhaust turbine.

I know a steel wheel is going to be much more durable than a ceramic. However if something is causing the ceramic wheels to break at very low boost levels the first time it hits boost, whatever is causing it is going to put excessive wear on the steel wheel also, potentially leading to premature failure.

[Mr GTS4]

could the whole dodge exhaust manifold be the problem. forcing the exhaust gases onto the rear wheel so it bends alittle and breaks, especially if you have different sized runners to each turbo

[Moodles2]

Is the rear turbo the culprit or the front turbo that is losing the wheel? It could be the piping itself making one turbo work harder than the other (in case of GTRs it's the rear turbo that does more work since the angle of the twin turbo pipe forces both turbos to fight against each other)

[PM-R33]

I really don't think replacing the turbo's is going to help.

There is an underlying issue that needs to be found and solved. Simply putting on a new set might still do the same thing. There is a reason they are letting go, and hitting 7psi for the first time is definetely not due to ceramic exhaust wheels.

[2LV8ETR]

I'm assuming this is the 2L-TE engine from the LN130? I have done a lot of research on the subject as I own one and have recently fully rebuilt the engine to use until I am ready to go the route I have chosen.

In any event, horsepower isn't what the diesel is all about, it's torque. I understand that by increasing hp, you'll increase torque, but the engine itself isn't designed to be pushed too hard as they already run a 21:1 compression ratio.

If you consider that the 2L-T has only 1 hp less (96hp) than the 2L-TE, the torque increase is from 188Nm to 241Nm with the 2L-TE, and the only difference is the addition of EFI rather than mechanical injection. So by increasing the boost, you won't achieve a great deal of increase in hp.

As it is, the CT-20 that's used on them already is considered too big for the 2.4L diesel, so the twins from a GT-R will be excessive. Apparently the T28 from the S-14/15 is a better option for this engine. I have even read where people have downgraded from the CT-20 to the smaller CT-12 with better results as the boost comes on quicker. I did contemplate using a CT-26 which I was given from a 7M-GTE, but research told me that they are way too laggy and would be a step backwards.

The way I am going is to mate the 5L-E engine to the 2L-TE head. This way I have the 3 litre bottom end and the 2L-TE head will bolt directly onto the block. I can also retain the current ECU and wiring. This is somewhat similar to an R32 owner dropping the RB30 block onto an RB25DE head from an NA R32/A31 (another of my projects, but slightly more involved). I will be modifying the CT-26 turbo to suit the CT-20 manifold and testing the results, but I will more than likely be retaining the CT-20. You must use the the 5L-E and not the 5L if you have the auto gearbox because you need the crank angle sensor on the side of the block.

The best way to go is to drop the 1UZ-FE from a Celsior into the Surf. It's a very involved process but everyone who does it has a grin akin to a Cheshire cat.

This doesn't help you with the issue that you're having at the moment, but I think that it may be the wrong road to take with the engine that you're dealing with. I will be watching the thread with interest though, because I have not come across this approach yet and I'm interested in the results if you can get it happening.

Good luck.

[Josh_TypeX]

Engine is the 22RE petrol. I know the twins probably aren't the best route for him to take. Was originally going to use my old R33 turbo, however the exhaust wheel snapped off before it even made it on the car (had been running 15PSI on my RB20 for ages). So somehow he ended up with a pair of gtr turbos and decided to use them.

[R31 POWER]

Maybe bits of welding dags left in the exhaust manifold?

[skylinecouple]

If we could have an idea of the power it was making when the turbo let go it may help. If it really came on hard then perhaps the way boost is measured may be wrong. Can you be sure it didn't let go at 20lbs of boost ? not to mention the lack of tuning as I could well imagine the exhaust heat in a lean engine at 20lbs.

[paulr33]

agree with R31 power, if its a home made manifold, dags and loose bits of weld etc might be dislodging at high EGT's and taking out the exhaust wheels

certainly likely

[Josh_TypeX]

The welding dags and high EGT's could make sense. I'll look into how well he cleaned it up. But feel free to keep the suggestions coming!

Skylinecouple; pretty sure it would only have been 7psi. They are running standard gtr actuators, so shouldn't be able to spike that high. And I'm pretty sure this guy would have hooked the boost gauge up correctly.

[MrStabby]

Lots of good suggestions above. Also, did he buy new actuators or at least verify they are working in unison? You could have one turbo running flat out (then blowing) while the other is cruising. Also, i'd check the oil delivery is within spec. Also, could have been a bad rebuild....