Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bendix Ultimate is what you want.. careful on what the coventry/repco guys pick out of the catalogue as the current Bendix catalogue is wrong. Take in your old pads or trace the outline onto a piece of paper if you can as a sample as the catalogue has real life size pics.

From memory, I think the right shaped pads are under the heading of a R31 - but only because the catalogue is wrong!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34299-need-brake-pads/#findComment-687307
Share on other sites

Bendix are SHIT

Go to Perth Brake Parts in Welshpool.

Get some Ferrodo's or ebc or green stuff.

The belief that bendix are good pads is a JOKE. Parth Brake Parts - Ask for Neil (tell him Daniel AKA IMACUL8 sent you) and tell him what you need - he'll run through all the available options and their prices for you.

There phone number is 9451 9455

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34299-need-brake-pads/#findComment-687384
Share on other sites

For a cheap pad, bendix ultimates are fine, especially on a road car, going to anything that is a partial or full metal pad is a stupid idea of a road car as it does nothing but destroy the rotors, and they squeal like stuck cops..

and they handle a beating fine, i used them for trackwork and MC without a hassle..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34299-need-brake-pads/#findComment-687502
Share on other sites

With the bendix - brake really hard 2 or 3 times in a row a watch those babies fade badly. If you drive like a old man there fine - but being performance enthusists id imagine that people like to give it a squirt. A better brake pad really comes into its own in situations like cruises when you sometimes do things you normally wouldnt - that extra security is wirth the extra 100 bucks.....

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34299-need-brake-pads/#findComment-687957
Share on other sites

Dan - I disagree with you here. Never had a fading problem with Bendix Ultimate - maybe the slotted rotors are helping that. Bendix Advance however are shit - definitely agreed there..

I agree with XRW on the metal pads issue. No point putting them on a daily driven car. Warm up issues and chewing out brake rotors, etc... BUT if you drive everywhere in a manner that needs them and have lots of spare $$ then sure, I guess it's a good idea.. Depends what suits really.

BUT - for a young guy (13_devil) who probably doesn't have huge amounts of $$ to be replacing his brakes all the time, I'd say Bendix Ultimate would be the way to go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34299-need-brake-pads/#findComment-687975
Share on other sites

LOL... agreed Dan.. :cheers:

I know what you're saying about ppl spending a fortune on parts that aren't important but not much on those that are. I think alot of it is a combination understanding of whats going on under your seat (not just under the bonnet) and "out of sight, out of mind".. *sigh*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34299-need-brake-pads/#findComment-688011
Share on other sites

I use Bendix Ultimate, and apart from knowing they're not the absolute Duck's nuts of pads, they do thier job well, and pull up a shitload better than stocker/no-name pads.

They take quite a beating before they get brake fade (albeit 5+ repeated stops from 190+ -> 0 km/h )

The good thing is, they bite hard and don't lock up the rubber unless pushed to the limit.

Considering this, I'm thinking for my next set of pads will be something like the Ferrodo 3000's. Only heard good about these.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34299-need-brake-pads/#findComment-688014
Share on other sites

Im running ferrodo 2500 on the rex, bought them 4 weeks ago - got a discount and picked them up for $200. They are fantasic. I have four pot brakes on the front, I cant recall what r33 run on the front - but thats the pricing for the 4 pots,

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34299-need-brake-pads/#findComment-688022
Share on other sites

they are also 4 pot arent they

anyways mike go to the place dan recommended i went to their other store in myaree, but they are pretty knowledgeable and have done quite a few skylines, and suprisingly dan. the rear brakes use WRX part number for kevlar rears

i used ebc's on my white r33 and i favour them over bendix

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34299-need-brake-pads/#findComment-688130
Share on other sites

There the same pad, as all the 4 pot sumitomo callipers use the same item..

the ultimates do not fad dan, ive done 20 laps non stop at wanners braking late and hard each time, they do not fade after a few hard stops..

if they where fading for you, put in new fluid, because its not a pad issue, when doing pads you should consider how long its been since a fluid change..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34299-need-brake-pads/#findComment-688337
Share on other sites

I'm from QLD but will be moving to Perth mid June. I have a set of RB74's on my car. Absolutley brilliant, very little dust, and very good bite from cold. Haven't had any problem from repeqted stops yet, no squealfrom mine. So far seems to be ok on rotors too, guess I'll see in a few months.

Try the DBA RB74 pads; they seemed to get some positive response and go for $120 a pair.

 

Decent pads, when bedded in properly, won't squeal excessively.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34299-need-brake-pads/#findComment-689440
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...