Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just wondering what everyone thinks the best first performance mod is for a R33 GT-R?

I know with my XT Forester the single best mod performance wise was swapping the stock exhaust system for a 3" TBE.

Would you say the same for the R33 GT-R?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343240-r33-gt-r-best-first-mod-option/
Share on other sites

remove boost restrictor,good air filter, whole exhuast with good metal cat, cam gears, boost controller max 18psi on stock comp and injectors, then comp and z32 afms, then injectors and fuel pump, turbos, cams and full engine build, i've done or in process of doing in this order

Thanks guys, much appreciated.

Some of those will have to wait until the bank account recovers from buying the car! LOL

Just curious, will I notice much of a difference if I remove the boost restrictor now?

Also how safe is this given the ceramic stock turbo wheels? And do I need a boost gauge (other than the stock one) and a manual boost controller?

from memory (tuned one awhile back and was not to far off one with 3" cat back) the std 33 GTR exhaust was not too bad at the power levels these make (JDM cats are good, compliance cats are not) boost restrictor removal and tune if your not into more noise from the rear.

Removing the bung improves your air intake... I dont know how is that bad. Plus you can hear the induction and bov sound more and its legal!

But anyway, like everyone else said. Get someone good to look after your car if you're not very mechanically minded. Probably good to get the exhaust system done first (front pipe, cat and catback) and ecu + boost (around 12-14psi should be fine on stock turbo). Read more on the force induction section and you'll find most of your questions already answered.

totally depends on budget

ensure your brakes are up to scratch first, & an oil change & spark plugs

ensure the HICAS fluid is also correct.

next i would

(assuming all is stock)

replace the factory intake - replace with ARC if budget allows or Apexi.

replace factory exhaust / muffler withi something like HKS Hi silent if your wanting a quiet muffler or blitz nur if not

take out the cat , and replace with decat

boost controller run at 1bar.

then dyno run to ensure all is well

fuel pump woudl also be on my agenda

It seems when I am reffering to the boost restrictor others are talking about something to do with the airbox etc.

I am talking about the boost restrictor that is in one of the vaccuum hoses and is marked by the yellow line. It restricts boost to 9psi from the factory and when removed raises the boost to 14psi.

Where is the HICAS fluid located? The manual that came with the car is pretty crap, looks like omething that did not come from the factory.

Where is the HICAS fluid located? The manual that came with the car is pretty crap, looks like omething that did not come from the factory.

There is no HICAS fluid on a R33 or R34 the HICAS rack is electric not hydraulic. And do not waste your money on replacing intake pipes... get everything fixed and ensure everything functions correctly. That will cost you enough before you start spending it on handling better and going faster!

Hi all,

Just wondering what everyone thinks the best first performance mod is for a R33 GT-R?

I know with my XT Forester the single best mod performance wise was swapping the stock exhaust system for a 3" TBE.

Would you say the same for the R33 GT-R?

Cheers.

dont do it, its a slippery slope :blink:

i would personally get everything checked over, stick it on a dyno and check afr, compression if not already checked, service and replace anything thats worn like pads, rotors, tyres etc, after all that, you have a good base to start doing lil mods, i wouldnt take the restrictor out if u running stock turbos, its still a nice car, enjoy it and do the easiest and cheapest mods first so your wallet doesnt have a heart attack

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
    • Welcome Adam. Car looks great!
    • "With a 1.5-WAY, the LSD is effective only during acceleration."
    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
×
×
  • Create New...