Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, I am very interested to see how it goes!  Obviously this is all theory, and I think there is worth in the thought experiment side of things.

If you haven't checked them, here's the turbine flow map for the normal GT35 turbine (ie, like from your 3586HTA)
GTX35_TurbineMap.jpg

 

And for the "RS" version:

GEN2GTX3584RS_TurbineMap.jpg

By Garrett's own admission/claims the increase in flow "A/R for A/R" the new RS turbine is only margainally better flowing than the existing GT35.  On paper the 1.06a/r GT35 housing will actually outflow the 1.01a/r "RS" turbine though obviously there is more to it than just that.

Edited by Lithium

Not interested in the GTX3582R GEN II, given the turbine is the same as what I've already got.

How much power does the GTW3884 produce with the 67mm-84mm comp wheel?

1 minute ago, whatsisname said:

Not interested in the GTX3582R GEN II, given the turbine is the same as what I've already got.

I think you missed the point of what I shared.... the difference in turbine flow between the old GT35 and the "RS" one used on the GTX3584RS is 2/10ths of f-all.  

Based off what is available on paper I would wager than the GTW3884R will make more power than the GTX3584RS but will obviously come at some cost in terms of lag but I don't know what people have actually made from the GTW3884R.  I'm guessing something close to what people used to make with GT3794HTAs

Comparing exhaust flow between the GT35 and RS turbines at the same housing size there is a difference in flow. Okay it's not huge, about 1.5-2lbs/min at the important PR range of 3.0-3.5 where most RB motors will operate. Of course anyone willing to sacrifice even more response can use the 1.21 housing where the increase in flow over the GT35 is closer to 4-5lbs/min.

If I can get around up around 530-560kW at the wheels and peak boost by 4000-4500RPM or thereabouts I'll be more than happy with the decision.

Found a dyno result for a GTW3884 on a BA XR6T. No other details other than just over 500kW @ 25psi.

Yeah, I am very interested to see how it goes!  Obviously this is all theory, and I think there is worth in the thought experiment side of things.
If you haven't checked them, here's the turbine flow map for the normal GT35 turbine (ie, like from your 3586HTA)
GTX35_TurbineMap.jpg&key=d1b86af86e594e8efdf3cee3ab44ab98bc5358f9501e4bedc092d544667fbd1c
 
And for the "RS" version:
GEN2GTX3584RS_TurbineMap.jpg&key=35a4320fb2bb48eda32282d583c64fe1572fd98d945576510c52bbd8b489e913
By Garrett's own admission/claims the increase in flow "A/R for A/R" the new RS turbine is only margainally better flowing than the existing GT35.  On paper the 1.06a/r GT35 housing will actually outflow the 1.01a/r "RS" turbine though obviously there is more to it than just that.



1.06 vs 1.01 isn't A/R for A/R [emoji6]

Three more XR6T with GTW3884R results:
427kW 21-22psi on 98
423kW on 19psi also running pump 98
490kW on 24psi Unknown fuel - possibly 98.
Found a 512kW on 20psi running E85 but not sure if it's a GTW3884 result or not

2 hours ago, whatsisname said:

Not interested in the GTX3582R GEN II, given the turbine is the same as what I've already got.

How much power does the GTW3884 produce with the 67mm-84mm comp wheel?

last one i saw was 655rwhp on 36psi through a auto sohc rb30, 144mph ish traps at 1300kg ish

What you and your mate are missing matt, is you are talking T3 housings, doesnt matter how good the turbine is..your pushing shit uphill

from 450rwkw onwards really on a 3.0...okay on a 2.0.. its t4 time if your starting from a clean sheet of paper..this will never change

your giving up spool..and power

Out of interest..the p trim turbine is hardly anymore efficient than a 3582 turbine in the real world without  being backcut alot

and the 65mm old precision turbo turbine is a turbonetics f1 wheel

Edited by jet_r31

So if the T3 housing is the limiting factor, how have people managed to run over 170mph trap speeds and the horsepower required to do so using a T3 housing?

And vls have run that close to that with 3582's with the KTS 11 blade gtx billet wheel on less boost..

my mate went 140mph on 30psi with stupid retard  backpressure(full exhaust  with gate plumbed back), others have gone 143 on 32psi.. with .82s and backcut 3582 turbines

I wonder what peak power gain I would see switching from the current FP T3 0.85 to a Garrett 1.06
463.7kW @ 25psi was all we could get using the 0.85

Saw another RB30ET make 450kW through a 2sp glide running a GTX3582 GEN I - roughly 480-490kW through a 5sp on the BW dyno

Yeh my mates vl made 450rwkw though glide on 30psi with just that 67mm comp wheel upgrade on 3582 ..went 140mph 

make f**kloads more with exhaust off...but went straight to 40psi...and maxed out 2 044's

laggy though...

you really want a pt6466 .82 t3..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...