Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok now this thread is well and truly gone off topic.

Me;

HKS GTRS's

OS Giken R3C

Tomei procam 270 10.25

Paul;

HKS GTRS's

NISMO c spec twin

Tomei procam 270 10.25

Every bit of info you want is already on the forum in various threads, start with the dyno result threads in this section which are even stickies up the top.

  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 months later...

No way would i ever rely on a single pump for a high hp outfit.

Twin pierbergs for me, they outflow the 044's by a wide margin And at least there is some insurance if one shits itself.

Twice as many things to go wrong with two pumps. Especially two of lesser quality compared to a Weldon; plus you could get the Weldon rebuilt every xxxx kms.

Is the Weldon a brush motor? It will need rebuilding then. Is anyone running the new brushless pumps like the Aeromotive or Fuelab? They look like the go for 400 to 800 lph and less than a third of the Welden price.

post-63525-0-13272600-1300491426_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-12816700-1300491448_thumb.jpg

This is a pointless thread as it depends on what the engines BSCF. Some setups will be lots more efficient at converting the fuel to power. I have made 560rwkw on a dyno dynamics dyno that reads lowish with 6 x 880cc injectors with 2x044 and still had enough margin in the tune for more.

No way would i ever rely on a single pump for a high hp outfit.

Twin pierbergs for me, they outflow the 044's by a wide margin And at least there is some insurance if one shits itself.

I look at this another way. If you have twin pumps, one dies without you warning. Cars seems to run fine but is running lean and pops the motor. Running a bigger single pump and it fails you will know about it as the motor will stop :)

Mind you if we ever get E85 on pump in WA i will probably be forced to run twins, twin in-tank walbros will probably get the tick :)

Is the Weldon a brush motor? It will need rebuilding then. Is anyone running the new brushless pumps like the Aeromotive or Fuelab? They look like the go for 400 to 800 lph and less than a third of the Welden price.

The aeromotive gear is veeery noisy... but most importantly ALOT of guys in the US runn them and have to send them back/ warranty/ replace them on a regular basis.. If your pushing 1000+hp at the crank, then you will be re-building your engine more often than the fuel pump.... hp costs money!

I look at this another way. If you have twin pumps, one dies without you warning. Cars seems to run fine but is running lean and pops the motor. Running a bigger single pump and it fails you will know about it as the motor will stop :)

Mind you if we ever get E85 on pump in WA i will probably be forced to run twins, twin in-tank walbros will probably get the tick :)

This is my argument.... Iv'e seen it first hand. Two bosch pumps on paralell, one shtis itself and the other tries to pick up the slack.... it\s only lean right in the top end (the most important/ dangerous end) of the power curve. Especially if there's no non-return valves fitted!!!

For those using the factory hicas lines for fuel lines, whats the best way to connect to them?

Cut the ends off, slide a flare sleve and nut, flare the end and hey presto you have a female flared coupling.... then use any (correct size) AN or dash male fitting.

Other than they flow nothing at 80psi. Walbro HP's are better but those aeromotive walbro style ones seem the go for intank.

200L per hour at 80psi, so in twins would flow 400L per hour

On a 6 cylinder that's enough to feed 1100cc injectors!

Not exactly nothing...

Edited by SimonR32

They are right at their limit, the graph here shows it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/357584-aeromotive-340lph-and-deatchwerks-300lph-in-tank-fuel-pumps/

Running them past 80psi causes cavitation, the pump cant suck any more fuel up and gas bubbles are produced by the vacuum, this will shag the pump bearings and impellers. Only a problem at over 30psi unless your base pressure has been bumped up...

The large Aeromotive pumps have had bearing problems in the past, they have the same cavitation issues unless you run -8 lines minimum apparently.

post-63525-0-33924700-1300529794_thumb.jpg

Don't look at the Walbro 255l graph, no one should be stupid enough to use one of those!

The GSS-342 pumps are the 255l HP line on the graph you posted and still even flow 175l/hr at 90psi

Plus as you said any skyline running less than 2 bar would be more around 70psi pressure :)

Cut the ends off, slide a flare sleve and nut, flare the end and hey presto you have a female flared coupling.... then use any (correct size) AN or dash male fitting.

Got any pics?

nath, flaring the ends of the hicas lines so you can run a regular AN male fitting is the go, BUT the hicas lines are farking hard to flare. you need a decent flaring tool to do it and probably have to heat the line up a bit too. I'm not sure that I could get a nice flare on them. failing that plenty of people just use the tool that gives you are raised bump around the circumference and then run a push on type fitting with hose clamp. not ideal but they will work if done right. if your flaring for the AN coupling make sure you don't forget to slide the nut on first!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
×
×
  • Create New...