Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I know what a clubman is, never heard the term westie before or pbr, just clubman :P

Hell it was only a couple of months ago I found out what a Radical was, and that was only because Neil was always banging on about them lol

Should have clarified that when I say homo mobile, I'm referring to my S13 as a street car. I dont mind it on the track, I'm sure clubmans are great on the track also, just not my cup of tea on the street.

Edited by ActionDan

Couple of hairy moments there!

Looking at that I would take the porka If I had the cash...didnt look like it was trying to kill the driver on every corner...But No way as fun....and I have the plans here to build a 7...one day lol

As I've said before, don't knock FWD till you try it. There are good and bad ones, and the better ones can be as neutral as anything else out there. The only thing they 'll miss out on are big power slides, so if it's a drifter you want, then stick to RWD. If you want a fast, fun track car, then you may be surprised.

I'm saying this as a RWD driver and racer for the last 26 years and a self confessed FWD hater (till I bought one)

Dan,,,you can aways hand over the right amount of cash and buy my radical. No it's not actually up for sale but like everything,,,money talks.

I think a used Mini challenge cup car at the right price would be a great bit of kit. It already has all the gear in it,,,cage,,,seats,,,all the shit.

Dragging horsepower out of a n/a is a very painful and expensive exercise. Prime example IS the radical,,,while its bloody quick,,,but not quick enough,,,I need to spend in excess of 10 grand to get 30 more kilos and I want 100 more. Turbo car,,,30 more babies is just a boost increase away,,,100 more is really just bolt ons.

Oh bloody great vid Phunky. For the fun factor I'll have the R500. That looked like great fun.

Cheers

Neil.

A used Mini Cup car would make a lot of sense I would think. They look like great fun to drive and reasonable to maintain.

As for the vid, as much as I'm a massive Porka fan I don't know if I could go past that R500. Looks like an absolute hoot to drive! I think they sound awesome too...

Forget R500s and R400s. Get an ex R300 race car and put S2000 running gear in it! Having driven an R400 and an Exige S around the same track, I was shocked to find the R400 absolutely smashed the 2010 model Exige S. The R400 was detuned and had sway bars removed to make it easier to drive for those hiring it. So it was wounded and still spanked an Exige S :)

So, as for being homo spec...suits me fine when its the quickest thing on the circuit!

On the street Roy, not on the track. I dont like driving my S13 on the street coz it's a bit gay and looks stupid with half interior and spoiler etc.

Anything goes on the track, went to a fun day once in a 79 corona wagon, was awesome.

Used mini cooper would be a bit of fun for sure, wonder what they go for these days.

I reckon when it comes time to buy a replacement for the S13 I'll deffo be buying something already setup if possible. The value for money is awesome.

Building up a car yourself is a lot of fun but it can be a bit pricey and time consuming.

Prime example IS the radical,,,while its bloody quick,,,but not quick enough,,,I need to spend in excess of 10 grand to get 30 more kilos and I want 100 more.

Neil, Neil, Neil

Listen Tiger, A GT25, 14 PSI, some new pistons dont cost 10K. ;)

Do it, You know you want to. :thumbsup:

Neil, Neil, Neil

Listen Tiger, A GT25, 14 PSI, some new pistons dont cost 10K. :D

Do it, You know you want to. :thumbsup:

Graham,,,we have had this conversation way to many times mate. :D

No turbo,,,NO supercharger. ;) Forced induction would remove the car from the classes I can run in.

Would be great though. ;)

Heres a mini on my105,,,interesting to find out what the lease is all about.

http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/.../9/Default.aspx

Specifications

Cylinders/displacement - 4/1.598 cm3

Power Output - 155 kW (211 hp)

Max. torque - 260 Nm (+20 Nm with overboost)

Max. speed - 240 km/h

0-100 km/h - 6.1 sec.

100-0 km/h - 3.1 sec./31metres

Length/width/height - 3,798/1,683/1,446

Wheelbase - 2,467

Min. weight - 1210 kg (incl. driver)

Weight to power ratio - 5,16 kg/hp

Cheers

Neil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...