Jump to content
SAU Community

What colour for rims?  

23 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm going to get my wheels reconditioned and the guy said I could get it done another colour if I like.

They're Rays Nismo LMGT2's I believe.

Just weighing up the options, I either want it the same white colour or go matte black.

I'm not the best at photoshop but it gives you an idea:

post-72359-1290036580_thumb.jpg

post-72359-1290036595_thumb.jpg

Let me know what you think, or maybe any other possible suggestions?

Cheers,

Jaylon

Edited by Jay11
White to give you the clean look.

Black to give you the tough look.

If you go black, just paint the spokes (how the white looks but in black)

Leave the lip polished.

Yeah I've always liked black rims on a white car.

True, like this?

post-72359-1290041973_thumb.jpg

I'm really liking black with the polished lip.

I think the stickers are about $4 each :woot:

The other alternative is the black LMGT 4's are a polished black, that might look okay?

definatly, LMGT4's are made for R34's :P

otherwise, go the black with polished lip

definatly, LMGT4's are made for R34's :P

otherwise, go the black with polished lip

If I were buying a new set of rims I would go the Rota GTR-D's :rofl:

What I meant was the same polished black colour of the LMGT4's would maybe look alright on my LMGT2's?

I wonder how much the GTR-D's are?

Coz it's $600 all up for painting and reconditioning my ones, $150 per wheel.

Black = stealth and safe look.

Chrome or silver = a bit of bling (nothing wrong with it) and stands out more.

Other = I like gold ones too...looks tough, eg.g Volk GTC's...but pricey and you gotta have the matching bodykit to go with it...

At the end of the day, your call and you'll be driving it...

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for a late reply, I've been away for work for the past few weeks.

I think I'm still leaning towards keeping them white because I've seen quite a few white 34's getting around with black rims...

If only it were as easy as NFS where you can paint your wheels every few seconds if you want them another colour or style :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...