Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

So Sard 700s and Nismo in tank should be ok for a 50% mix?

Can't see why not, I do have a sard reg as well but it's set at standard pressure so doing exactly the same thing as a stocker :)

Bris guys are making 370-380 killerwasps on straight E85 on RB26s using 700's you "should" be fine with the little 2L and that pump.

Yeah, it's only people like Elite Racing that seem to have issues with injectors/pumps not flowing. I have a feeling it might be the tradie and not the tool in that case haha

Can't see why not, I do have a sard reg as well but it's set at standard pressure so doing exactly the same thing as a stocker :)

Yeah, it's only people like Elite Racing that seem to have issues with injectors/pumps not flowing. I have a feeling it might be the tradie and not the tool in that case haha

Hey thanks for the plug.

BTW, when I called you out on it via PM, you never got back to me with those figures? You might wanna back up your mouth with some facts before you get into an argument you can't win

Hey thanks for the plug.

BTW, when I called you out on it via PM, you never got back to me with those figures? You might wanna back up your mouth with some facts before you get into an argument you can't win

I guess it was a bit of a plug, mind you I always thought that being infamous was not all it's cracked up to be.

I gave up getting back to you with evidence after you said the dyno figures were inflated, the mph of the trap speeds were fake and just generally everything that I showed you was impossible!

But hey, I have every reason to lie about it...

...wait actually I don't!

Edited by SimonR32

why on earth would anyone go to the trouble of making a fake 1/4 slip

That's the point, he never showed me anything,

He's real good at running around like a school kid dropping smart ass comments but when you call him out on it he backs out and runs away.

You never answered any of the questions I asked you on injector size or open time and did nothing but comment on how many dynos read the same figure.

I told you before, until you have PROOF of your claims, then don't make comment on advice I give or information I provide.

  • 2 weeks later...

Another update, have not driven the old girl for a fair while now because I decided to get some decent coilovers to replace the mismatched pairs...

Was going to get a set of BCs but ended up with a Set of Greddy Type S. They are a lot better than the old set as they are base adjustable, damper adjustable and also have tapered rear springs!

2011-05-11173313.jpg

Busy setting the ride heights at the moment (did rears last night) and have had a few quick test drives on them and they feel and handle a lot better so I'm very happy :)

Also tried to install the JJR castor rod brace but it fouls on the front standard swaybar. I'm assuming it's because of the amount of front castor and camber I run, has anyone else had this issue before?

jjrchassisbrace.jpg

Edited by SimonR32
  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...