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My suggestion for the 24mm front bar was just to complement the GTR rear..but i looked it up and GTR rear bar is 25mm, (i thought it was 22mm), so would be better go the 27mm front.

"Rear-wheel drives that oversteer, or pick up an inside rear wheel and spin it, often benefit from a upsized front sway bar"

Maybe just start off with a thicker front first and see how it handles..

GTR OE is hollow vs Whiteline solid so slightly different. You wont find Whiteline part numbers for the bars that Russel runs. Like I said they are my old custom ones and not off the shelf catalogue items.

When you factor in the money for deliveyr etc and their generally cheap price. Just buy a set, that way you have a proven swaybar receipt.

yeah true..

do you know why there is no thicker front bar option Roy...general rule of thumb has always led me to believe the front should be a little thicker is all...or is it just the 33 needs bigger bars cause its a boat

Though i guess there is a 22mm rear option too...

Ok I think I have come up with a plan... Let me know what you think :)

Set up the subframe as per below, yellow = whiteline bush and red = kazama ally lock bushes

Capture-5.jpg

Buy some Whiteline 24mm adjustable sway bars (front and rear) and run them on the softer setting

Run 255/40's on the back and wind the coilovers to the softest damper setting

id be trying this first ... and its a cheap option first and only making sutle changes so you can actually get a real feel for what is going on and then fine tune from there

+ front sway is obviosuly adjustable so can play around a little to suit if you keeping the gtr rear sway

if you want to go adj 27mm whitelines, they were custom made when i bought them only extra few $$ got them done through WA Suspension in a few days

If you ring whiteline you should find that you can get them to make you a bar of any type or thickness you want. Of course there is a wait time but they are just like King springs in that they do custom orders all the time. We had to wait 2-3 weeks for our custom spring order and recently had some not-on-the-shelf whiteline bars produced for us as well. Might be worth looking in to

If you ring whiteline you should find that you can get them to make you a bar of any type or thickness you want. Of course there is a wait time but they are just like King springs in that they do custom orders all the time. We had to wait 2-3 weeks for our custom spring order and recently had some not-on-the-shelf whiteline bars produced for us as well. Might be worth looking in to

Cheers for the heads up... Unfortunately time is not my friend as the track battle is next weekend. I'm going to start with a 24mm adjustable front and keep the GTR rear for now :thumbsup:

With your traction issues simon you springs are too stiff, 8 and 6 is for drifting, you could almost half that and get better performance.

Use swaybars to reduce body rolls, not springs. Also the valving in most coilovers is rubbish.

Edited by Rolls

With your traction issues simon you springs are too stiff, 8 and 6 is for drifting, you could almost half that and get better performance.

Use swaybars to reduce body rolls, not springs. Also the valving in most coilovers is rubbish.

Really? I am running the same spring rates (albeit with different shocks) and my car is fine. In fact I think it could be lacking a little spring all round and considering going up in spring rates now that I dont have my larger swaybars. Tossing and turning over that decision, I either need my old swaybars back or more spring.

I dont think 8 & 6 on shocks that are of reasonable quality and condition are a problem on a GTSt running good quality semi slicks? I used to run what you propose spring rate wise on my old Bilsteins and on semis it scraped its door handles on the ground in the bends.

yeah i would have thought 8/6 was a good compromise with mid strenght sways the front a bit heavier than the rear would be close to perfect..the rest can be sorted through adjustment of dampening and alignment settings

yeah i would have thought 8/6 was a good compromise with mid strenght sways the front a bit heavier than the rear would be close to perfect..the rest can be sorted through adjustment of dampening and alignment settings

Yeah 8/6 seems to be the general consensus of what is decent :)

Whiteline front and GTR rear it is... Now I have the issue that tyres are not available, so I might just have to run the tuner class with the 235 RE55s

Will be a good comparison to see if I have gone forwards or backwards in set up

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so I ended up getting most the stuff done that I wanted before the weekend (just)...

Installed the Whiteline subframe bush to set diff angle to maximum traction

Turned all the dampers back to soft on the Greddy coils

Installed a Whiteline 24mm adjustable front sway bar and set to hard

Got some New AVS model 5's 17x8+38 all round and mounted my 235 RE55S

and left the wheel alignment the same :whistling:

Car was a LOT better to drive, didn't feel like getting on the gas was going end up with me being killed as the result of massive over steer. Corner entry was also better, the back wasn't kicking out as much. So much more confident in driving the car at fast speeds, even traction in the straight line seemed to be improved :thumbsup:

So we only did the long track which was new to me over the weekend and I managed to do a 66.7sec while still getting used to braking points and not pushing overly hard. They say there is about 10sec difference between short and long so I have defiantly gained some time and didn't have to push anywhere as near as hard to get there so happy days :cheers:

For next time at the track I think I'll be adding some R33 LCA's to get camber at the front up to -3.5deg and have another crack at short track. If I can get down to the 54's I would be stoked :)

298778_306064252744794_100000236651628_1212069_1360854968_n.jpg

377129_10150413027362668_565427667_8301862_751090974_n.jpg

Yeh, so many S13/R32s etc all complain about not being able to get 180-200rwkws to the ground and these days I automatically assume its because they run "fully-sik" all sub frame bushes.

or using $20 chinese tyres :P

Good work Simon!

With all that new found grip out of corners I definitely will not be giving you ~any~ head start onto the front main straight at next years Powercruise... ;)

Grip ftw!

I dont think 8 & 6 on shocks that are of reasonable quality and condition are a problem on a GTSt running good quality semi slicks? I used to run what you propose spring rate wise on my old Bilsteins and on semis it scraped its door handles on the ground in the bends.

If you are running true semi slick and only driving it on a race track I agree, anything else and imo the slightest bump and you'll be getting wheel spin.

Really? I am running the same spring rates (albeit with different shocks) and my car is fine. In fact I think it could be lacking a little spring all round and considering going up in spring rates now that I dont have my larger swaybars. Tossing and turning over that decision, I either need my old swaybars back or more spring.

I dont think 8 & 6 on shocks that are of reasonable quality and condition are a problem on a GTSt running good quality semi slicks? I used to run what you propose spring rate wise on my old Bilsteins and on semis it scraped its door handles on the ground in the bends.

What dampeners are you running? The issue with most 8/6 rates is they come in a coilover kit with crappy shocks.

Edited by Rolls

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