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What would be the advantage of Nismo Gearbox Mounts?


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Ahh, im also interersted in this same question. Im instaliing the Rb30 hybrid, and would also like to know this, as well as what would be "overkill" ie engine mounts as well, maybe a rice "engine dampner". Would this stop flex in the drivetrain with the extra torque of the 30?:rolleyes:

Cheers:D

As far as i know the gearbox one stops the stick from shuddering on hard launches. (stock mount is quite soft...well on the box i have anyways)

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so could u fit one of these without doing engine gearbox mounts, or would it be wise to do them first, then this?

Any downsides to fitting one of these??

Im doing the rb30 and its "supposed" to have in the region of 600-700Nm of torque. would it be wise?

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I have an engine/torque brace on my FD - really, good engine mounts would be better - if you're going to do one, you don't need to bother with the other. The downside is they can rattle a little - so the noise level goes up.

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extra NVH - Noise, Vibration, and Harshness. If you have a loud car anyway (my FD isn't particularly loud) then you probably won't notice it that much.

I've heard that people have pulled apart these 'gas struts' and found that they aren't a moving shock absorber at all - they just look like one :D Not sure if that's the case with my r-magic brace, but it certainly does it's job - the difference was very noticeable

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are they the same as the polyurathane mission mounts?

i've installed one on my 180...as sewid said it lessons the torque movement of the engine/tranny.....

i'd say it helps throttle response a lil as well, and it is supposed to give more direct shifting.

in my case i've already put in a c's short shift previously which made a big difference and after the mount it only got better :P its sorta like those ferrari shifters..so direct....

only drawback is cabin shakes quite a bit...keys, coins, loose nuts rattle...BUT only at a certain rpm mine does it between 1100rpm n 980....all others its pretty much same as normal.....

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Having a bit of harshness is not always bad.

Remeber the ol' days of the V8 LH SLR/L34's?

Years back my old man picked up a SLR5000 that was sitting in a paddock.

Restored it, had the 4speed/diff rebuilt, had the motor rebuilt with a little more compression, biggish cam that caused you to feel the raw brup brup brup as the chassis twitched on idle. Had a twin 3" with small straight through mufflers that dumped out just after the rear 265's sitting on a set of hotwire looking mags.

I remember he had a 650holley on it for a while however he pulled it off and put on something else as it wasn't too crash hot. Then mum said "its not an old mans car its a young hoons car, sell it we need the money"

So.. well at the end of the day we all know who wears the pants in my family. :)

Would spin up first, second and give you a hard time in third if the road surface was a little lumpy/camber or slightly turning a corner.

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When I had my engine rebuilt last year, I figured that 10yrs on the original mounts (assumption) would definitely have taken their toll. As the original mounts get older, they split, allowing the engine and gear to twist more than normal causing stress on other things like exhaust mounts etc etc. I had both engine and gearbox mounts replaced as par for the course. Also had this done in my Silvia, both engine and gearbox mounts as was told that it's best to do both at the same time (which sounded logical to me). The original Silvia mounts were so bad that my dump pipe was bouncing off the firewall and the gear stick sometimes wasn't where I left it do to twist. This all changed once the mounts were new. Gearshift was cleaned up, and it felt as though the engine responded better too (seat of the pants feeling only). General smoothness when idling was also cleaned up.

I would say that if your car is getting up around the 10yr mark, then start budgeting for a set of mounts.

Cheers

Brendan

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