Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well its taken me hours to do this but here for those wanting to self service..

2 more goals i want for this potential sticky is

- DIY link for each thing - I have most, i will put in later

- Who in each city; 1. knows the V35, 350Z, 2. does not rape you on price when you provide the materials...

Alot of us know how to do it, but need a qualified mech to sign off our extended warranty cards..

So yes you can search, but who has hours to read through the whole forum. I had to, here is what i found. Much easier for people when all info is in one place

Fluids: 1 gallon = 4 quarts, 1 quart = .98L

Brake fluid:

Brand: Penrite SIN 600 (super DOT 4), Motul RBF 600* (DOT 5).

Amount: 1 quart, more if you keep getting air in the lines

Replace: Every 2 years if normal driving, if track or hard driving then every year (higher humidity = change no longer than a year)

* DOT 5 means you CANT mix with old fluid, you have to completely flush out old fluid.

Clutch fluid:

Brand: Penrite SIN 600, Motul RBF 600

Amount: 1 quart

Replace: Same as you break fluid

Engine Oil:

Brand: Mobil 1 5W-30, Mobil 1 5W-30 EP*, Mobil 1 5W-30 HM**, Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP***

Amount: 5-6 quarts, get 6 to be safe – you will always be able to use it for next change, top up.

Replace: Mobil 1 is good for up to 15,000miles/24,000kms but i would do it every 6-9000miles/10-15,000kms

*EP = Extended Performance (better protection, longer service interval than standard)

**HM = High Mileage Vehicle (for cars with engine 75,000miles/120,000km or more)

***ESP=Emission System Protection (for Euro cars, 2008+ with strict cats regulation)

Oil filter:

Brand: Nissan OEM or Mobil EP M1-108

Replace: Same time as oil

Power Steering Oil: Dexron III Compatible

Brand: Mobil ATF or Mobil 1 ATF (can't tell difference with Synthetic so non Mobil 1 is fine)

Amount: 1 quart will do 3 flush/top ups. Full system if drained needs 1.5 quarts

Replace: No set time frame but once a year, its cheap and prevention is always better than fixing.

Gearbox Oil: API GL-4

Brand: Redline MT-90 (75W-90) GL-4

Amount: 4 quarts

Replace: If you have owned the car and know you have used good oil then every 30,000miles/48,000kms. Otherwise do it sooner if you dont know the history or you feel problems with transmission.

Diff Oil: SVG GL-5

Brand: Redline Gear Oil (75W-90) GL-5

Amount: 1 quart

Replace: If you have owned the car and know you have used good oil then every 50,000miles/80,000kms. If you use good synthetic oil (Redline, M1) then it can go longer.

Spark Plugs:

Brand: NKG Iridium IX - #4469 LFR5AIX-11

Amount: 6x

Replace: Every 60,000miles/100,000kms or sooner if you inspect them and they are full of carbon, oil in cylinder, 2mm gap etc..

Battery: 400-420 CCA

Brand: Optima deep cycle AGM, any really

Replace: When it dies! Or early signs like struggling to start after car sat with ACC and lights on without motor running for only short period of time

The above is just advice, info i have pulled from everywhere so it's your own risk by not looking into it more in depth.

Cheap places to buy:

Oils: http://gllubricants.com/

Spark plugs: http://stores.ebay.com/autodinamics

Oils & Sparkplugs: http://www.performan...b.com/index.htm (not cheaper than the 2 above but they have both items.

Edited by R6n350GT
  • Like 2

Just thought I would chuck in a few DIY VQ links

Engine oil http://m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=63

Spark Plugs http://m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=64

Belt Change http://m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=88

Have a Diff (piss easy) and a Transmission (easy) thread to put up, but have not yet gotten around to it.

Accessing Fault Codes http://www.m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11&p=44#p44

Error Code List http://m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=12

Great, new forum upgrade but still cant edit previous posts...

Single post is just the one post w/wout pics and no other posts

Original thread is all posts plus OP

Video is a video ...

DIY Servicing:

Oil & Oil filter change: Single post

* Video

Power steering: Single post

- Original link

Battery: Single post

- Original link

* Before disconnecting the battery, lower both the driver and passenger windows

Transmission Oil change: Single post

- Original link

* Video

Clutch Oil change: Single post

- Original link

* Video

Diff Oil change: Single post

- Original link

* Video

Brake Bleeding: Single post

* Video

Spark plug change:

*

*

*

Ait Filter replacement:

* Video

Radiator fluid replacement:

* Video

Drive Belt replacement: Single post

* Video

Other DIY

Modifications:

* Video links

Electrical & Audio:

* Video links

Heater & Air Con:

* Video links

Air Bag & Body Exterior/Interior:

* Video links

Suspension, Brakes and Tires:

Video links

OEM Accessories Installation Guides:

Links

Engine Codes:

Links

Service Manual link group via servicing type

Links

Mechanics

Goldcoast

Nerang

Goldcoast Mobil Auto Care 5502 2000 $65 for oil filter and oil change (when materials are provided). This is also to check for other items in 30,000k service but price reflects that all checks do not need to be corrected. I called about 6 places and most were $170+ ... Will use this guy (Brett) and report how things went.

Also, if you can show your thank by clicking on green + and not making a post (unless it has other DIY or good well priced mechanics that would be great).

Can a MOD sticky this? Thanks :)

Edited by R6n350GT
  • Like 3
  • 3 months later...

Lamp Replacement Guide

Link

G35 Coupe Halos DIY Guide

Link

How To Fix Door Lock (Actuator) DIY

Link

Blinder M47 / Parking Sensor DIY

Link

Camber Arm DIY

SPC Install

Stillin Install

Edited by R6n350GT
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

from another member: newv35owner that i summarized

CVT Oil

Nissan KTF fluid KLE51-00004.

Amt: 8L

Replace: Every 100,000 or some so 80-90,000

From: www.cvt.co.nz.

Note: Do NOT use Nissan NS-2 fluid which may be suggested. CVT in the V35 is the Extroid which is different from Maxima that uses NS-2.

Price: Via NZ $1,222.31 AUD (8 litres), o-ring and gasket, and the instructions on how to complete the transmission service delivered.

5% duty and 10% gst to Australian Customs when importing into Australia. This brings the total to $1,493.04 to have the fluids, parts and instructions delivered.

Edited by R6n350GT
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Just a question in reagrds to the spark plugs

NGK in NZ recommends a different type of plug compared to what is recommended here.

It may be different with the VQ30DD vs the VQ35DE

Here you recommend the LFR5AIX-11 while the NGK site recommends for the VQ30DD a LFR5AQP

The big difference is the price the one you recommend is $9 each and the one NGK say to use it $50 each

Any advice would be appericated as here in NZ Skylines Downunder don't have much to do with the V35 series

  • 2 weeks later...

The fuel filter is intergrated into the fuel pump, inside the tank, I believe it can be replaced but it isn't an easy job, or a safe job for that matter. I don't know any part numbers.

  • 5 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 6 months later...

The ryco page is wrong, I have raised it with them before, but they haven't done anything about it.

Look up the 350z if you want the correct oil filter type.

Z445

But the Z547 will also fit and is 20mm longer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...