Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

B-Man do you know the specs of the turbo and its rated power from HKS? What engine internals have you had done?

Internals - Forged Arias pistons, Cryotempered everything else.

I think HKS rate the 3040 at 500 ps - I dunno how they do that when the exhaust housing options are 0.72 through to 1.12.......

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Internals - Forged Arias pistons, Cryotempered everything else.

 

I think HKS rate the 3040 at 500 ps - I dunno how they do that when the exhaust housing options are 0.72 through to 1.12.......

think they actually go down to 0.61, as all the hks GT30s use the same turbine housing.

Love it B-Man, good power. Do/will you have power runs at lower boost pressures, say 14-17psi for daily driving etc?

The reason I ask is that I have a hybrid internal gate Garrett GT3040, which has a slightly different exhaust wheel to HKS as well as 0.60 A/R comp and 0.63 A/R exh, but otherwise sort-of close. I get 265rwkW at 17psi with all other engine bits totally stock.

Would be nice to know your power at LOWER boost as it might help me predict what might happen when I boost it to 20-22psi later with other bolt-on stuff optimised, like exh manifold, cams etc.

Don't want to push it just yet as I have stock pistons.

Also do you ahev stock cams? If so, 323 is awsesome.

Freebaggin: im no expert but I thought the garrent turbos were out of their effiency range at 20-22 PSI, I could be wrong, but I thought thats was where the difference was between your HKS and garrent turbos? Garrents make their power on lower boost and HKS make theirs up higher?

Sumo

Freebaggin - no sorry mate no low boost Dyno reading as yet.

Cams are 256/9 Tomei with Exhaust cam gear. A/F ratios not on this dyno sheet, but will get them on final tuned dyno graph.

Sewid - not back yet - had to go back for new clutch - too much power...... ;)

CHeers, ;)

Joel, if you go the smallest housing, you will most probably either spend alot of time going sideways in the traffic, or alot of time driving around with low boost

i totally agree there.

im going .82 on my gt3040 ... speak of the devil should arrive today.

Wicked Results though B-Man.

All your woes are finally turning into GOES for a change! :zap:

Freebaggin: im no expert but I thought the garrent turbos were out of their effiency range at 20-22 PSI, I could be wrong, but I thought thats was where the difference was between your HKS and garrent turbos? Garrents make their power on lower boost and HKS make theirs up higher?

Sumo

Garretts run fine at high boost.

Thanks B-Man for info.

Garretts run fine at high boost.

Thanks B-Man for info.

Laggy compared to a zed, YES.

Compared to a GTR not so much. We have over layed dyno graphs from GTR's we have recently done and one with N1 turbo's and Tomei cams etc was a little more responsive low in revs, but not much. B- Mans Skyline had more mid range and top end. With more to tune yet.

Single Trubo with higher comp than RB26.

Joel, if you go the smallest housing, you will most probably either spend alot of time going sideways in the traffic, or alot of time driving around with low boost

As long as it comes on hard by 3500rpm i'm not worried what sized exhaust a/r it is.

.82 a/r should do it by 3500rpm on the 3ltr.

Nice results.

I just reeled off 256rwkw at 1 bar with a garrett 3040 with 0.82 rear housing and it makes power just likes yours bman. 3000-3500 around 7psi and then from just below 4000rpm 1 bar all the way to redline. I was just using a 1 bar spring in my external gate to control boost. I am hoping to run a few more psi also and see what she can do, but i still got stock internals.

As for garretts having a low psi efficience range, u should talk to the vl boys down at mel who are running over 2 bar with their garretts and running 9 sec passes, i think they will disagree with you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...