Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes, but hazzard a guess I would say 280-290rwks max on 98.

would have awesome snappy power on a 25 though

yeah thats what im hoping, if you have to get a new manifold though it would be the 67 for sure..

I tried to fit my t67 on the stock manifold just to see if it would fit but it was hitting engine mounts and A/C lines looked like alot of work and bordering on impossible.

Are you going to plumb the gate back into the exhaust?

See what happens..might try a screamer initially just cause I never had one before..lol.. Is yours..??

there was that T67 that had the smaller comp cover...they dont have any for sale now..

yeah so keeping in my mind on an rb25 you will ideally want the 10cm(.73) rear on all EG variants..all you really need to know is 20g for low mount or 25g for top mount..everything else isnt really too important..

Just trying to simplify it cause there is just too many variants...

It will be great to see the 20g and a gate hung off the stock manifold, with all due respect I think it will give hypergear a real run for his money.

It must be said tho, if you are looking for the simplest street orientated option I would stick to the HG. Being externally gated and proven capable of very high flow I would want the Kando for anything that will do some serious track time. No disrespect to HG but I would say for a hard tuned motor the Kando's will be a little more resilient to EGT.

Yeah that's why I'm going to give it a shot it going to be street driven but also taken down the track a fair bit

Yeah thats the thing, the HGs are great these days but we have seen they do get hot. Im confident the 20g will give the current good HGs a very good run for their money for spool/power but will definitely handle the heat a lot better.

The benefit to the HG is having it bolt up to most of the expensive stuff (manifolds and dumps).

GL, I rekon you will have a kick ass setup.

Haha yeah DVS jez kit a off the shelf kit I couldn't get a off shelf kit for rb25 in a Vl so I bought a vlt kit and drop saw and away I went made my own

Gtscott how'd you blow microtech wired up wrong?

Gtscott how'd you blow microtech wired up wrong?

You need to be careful with the bloody thing, its pretty weak electronically. What I did was short the ground on my VCT solenoid which is plugged into the vactory ecu. This caused a 12v spike to the stock ecu which is only earth switchable so the stock ECU spiked just about everything and blew its fuse.

When the stock ecu spiked it send a spike down the CAS trigger which the microtech piggyback's onto which fried my injector drivers.

I now have spark but no fuel. Microtech were pretty good about it though, should be able to fix it under 200 if I cant fix it myself. I think its likely to be the earth track for the injector drivers so ill just solder a wire in myself (havent opened it yet).

Careful not to over voltage any of yours inputs coz they do not like it lol.

probably a good thing, microleb for the lose.

ROFL imagine an army of microlebs! Shu Microcuz's! (nobody take offence im a big bad dirty wog myself)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...