Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you look through roys build up the has the turbos side by side I'm sure the greedy version but they are very similar to the kandos you can see the size difference in the turbine wheel

Edited by Bsa

I will be getting one of but can't until I get back from Thailand in janurary as money is tight. That's why I'm researching on them as I want to get the right one the first time. Just curious at how similar the to turbos will be seen the pics side by side just wondering what would be like on power curve etc

Any body done back to back testing between the SL2 and the td06h-20g

Two near identical setups on same dyno and same tuner and no difference. the L2 was a tad worse...a tad. My car was a little more responsive and made something like 1.5rwkws more...so variable is exhaust, engine health etc. Jack difference in the turbo...and both cars were recently lapping bumper to bumper at Winton so both about the same

Kris is now running my old spare L2, making good numbers. But i didnt see anything in results that made me want to swap my H for the L2

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/58229-top-rb20-club-do-you-have-over-260rwkw/page__st__1780

get the td06sl2 20g, it will spool faster and it can flow more than enough

also see this housing for their 8cm T3 internal gate.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbo-Turbine-Housing-TD06SL2-T67-T3-8cm-Internal-Gate-Mitsubishi-/290621301428?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43aa6122b4

just need to have the rear lopped off and drilled out

So after an adjusment its half way there, cheers again to scottynm35 who pretty much cut it, welded it and filed it smooth in the time it took me to smoke a cigarette..:thumbsup:

DSC03214.jpg

I reckon I may even be able to get my stock heatsheild to cover the dumps for some extra stealthishness.. :ph34r:

DSC03208.jpg

also just incase anyone is interested in what comes in your Kinguwana kit, here it is,

minus the almost metre long oil line which is in my car already.

The oil drain is very small compared to stock, not exactly sure what I will do about that.. Also I was surprised there was no blank plugs in the oil and water holes on the turbo cartridge..maybe this is normal I dunno..

DSC03221.jpg

does anyone know what the little T-piece sitting near the copper washes is for..I assume its for a gauge sensor, but not sure how or where it would fit in with the kit :unsure:

LMAO @ TIAL stealthiness, man you crack me up. I wish we lived nearby -_-

and you can get a TFI brass fitting to put a 5/8 bung on the block from autobahn, its a 3/4 from stock i think!

does anyone know what the little T-piece sitting near the copper washes is for..I assume its for a gauge sensor, but not sure how or where it would fit in with the kit :unsure:

Ye, has a 1/8" NPT fitting for an oil pressure gauge if you want to fir one there

So after an adjusment its half way there, cheers again to scottynm35 who pretty much cut it, welded it and filed it smooth in the time it took me to smoke a cigarette..:thumbsup:

DSC03214.jpg

I reckon I may even be able to get my stock heatsheild to cover the dumps for some extra stealthishness.. :ph34r:

DSC03208.jpg

also just incase anyone is interested in what comes in your Kinguwana kit, here it is,

minus the almost metre long oil line which is in my car already.

The oil drain is very small compared to stock, not exactly sure what I will do about that.. Also I was surprised there was no blank plugs in the oil and water holes on the turbo cartridge..maybe this is normal I dunno..

DSC03221.jpg

does anyone know what the little T-piece sitting near the copper washes is for..I assume its for a gauge sensor, but not sure how or where it would fit in with the kit :unsure:

Question for you, does that lip on the mounting face of the V-band flange fit into the rear housing and allow you to clamp it?

Basically I had the same flange but the rear housing was not machined to accept the lip so I had to get him to send a flat one out. A few other guys have PM'd me saying they had the same problem and had to get a replacement sent out too.

get the td06sl2 20g, it will spool faster and it can flow more than enough

also see this housing for their 8cm T3 internal gate.

http://www.ebay.com....=item43aa6122b4

just need to have the rear lopped off and drilled out

mines for a rb25 so im going to go the 10cm housing and external gate as the 8cm will choke

and artz ive also noticed your using a 10mm spacer between the turbo and manifold did you need this or did you do it just to be sure as i thought i read on here you didnt need it

Edited by luvpsi

yeah my housing is machined, fits like a glove.. guess i got lucky...

DSC03226.jpg

Cheers for the headsup though that could of made life hard had it not fit :cheers:

Thanks for that pic man, I'd definitely prefer to have that seal but mine seems to be sealing fine so far without it...

Scottynm35 did a great job on that housing-gate pipe!

It came up good, I wonder if you could get some sort of heatproof cover like a turbo beanie to cover the wastegate? I guess you will have a screamer plumbed over the heatsheild soon so it wont really matter, when the cops lift the bonnet you will be screwed. lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...